Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Clutch brake adjustment?


Guest

Recommended Posts

Ok just one more thing to try as everyone has given you great advise. Try adjusting the Brake pad rod first to its proper adjustment. It should state the adjustment in your manual but I think its about 7/8". If I am thinking correctly the linkage between the clutch rod and the brake pad rod are connected and if you don't ajust the brake rod first you will end up on the short side of the stick. I am hoping that I am write "but" been wrong more then once. >>->happyjack<-<<
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I followed the instructions for making these adjustments because my B-112 has been grinding when shifting between gears. If I'm fast, no grind, but if I'm slow in shifting or get caught in neutral, then it's rough to get it back into gear. Mostly, I just shut the tractor off and then put it into gear then restart. I talked to the dealer and he told me it's just the way of those antiques...get a new tractor if it bothers you. I just didn't like the tone of that "knowledgable individual". So I checked my manual and the database of fixes on this site.I then tried to make the appropriate adjustments. The problem seems to be that I can't get any more than about a 1/2 inch of space between the nuts and the rod guide on the clutch rod. The manual calls for 7/8 but I'm at the end of the rod. I do have about a quarter of an inch showing on the rear drive pulley. The manual calls for an 1/8 inch, but says older belts may ride higher into the pulley. I'm not really sure what to do here. I thought about adjusting the belt so it's at the recommended spec, but I'm wondering if it might be time for a new belt, maybe this one is stretched and that's the reason why I have no more room to back off those nuts on the clutch rod. I'd hate to buy a new belt if it's not the reason though. I should also note that I didn't notice any slop in the system at all when I have the belt off and was adjusting the different components. Then again, I don't know if I would be able to tell if anything was worn simply by excessive slop. Do you guys have any ideas on this? Grinding away in marguaritaville.....
Link to comment
Share on other sites

since I can't stand gringing gears and haven't yet spend the time to get mine right, on the B112 or the 725 I wear gloves when operating and when I miss the quick shift I reach behind me for the tranny pully and stop it by applying pressor to the side of it, wouldn't osha love that...MPH
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The pins or belt guides near the pulley comming off the engine have to be adjusted closser to the belt so the belt loosens on the front of the pulley not the sides. This should help and stop the grinding. Doug
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Grinding is an indication that the transmission pulley is still spinning when you try to change gears. Stopping the drive belt stops the tranny pulley from spinning. Make sure the front belt guard over the front pulley is set to spec... If that doesn't work, then you'll need to adjust the belt guide/stop.... In my experience on my old B-210, the real key to stopping grinding on the Varidrive is the belt guide on the idler pulley. It must "pinch" the belt, just enough, when you push the clutch/brake pedal in so that it will stop the belt. Yet, when the clutch pedal is out, it must let the belt move freely, without binding. If you've followed the rest of the procedure (as it sounds like you have), then try this: 1. Put the transmission in neutral and start the engine... 2. Lift the rear seat deck/fenders so that you can see what's going on.... 3. Push the clutch/brake pedal down slowly and see what the belt clearances are between the belt guide and the belt as the idler mechanism moves forward.... 4. Shut the engine off, so you can adjust the belt guide 5. Loosen the bolt/nut in the center of the idler pulley, and rotate the belt stop toward the front of the tractor slightly (1/4" or so), then retighten 6. Start it up and check it again.... 7. Repeat this until the belt stops moving (may jerk occasionally, but that's OK) when the clutch pedal is mashed down -- but, the back of the belt DOES NOT RUB the belt guide when the pedal is out... 8. This may take a few tries, tweaking and fine tuning, but it will stop your grinding.... If this doesn't work, let us know.... The depth of the belt in the pulleys affects the gear ratios and how well the varidrive controls speeds -- it has little (if anything) to do with the grinding you're experiencing. My 2 cents -- someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I've also heard that a badly worn, floppy belt is almost impossible to adjust to where it won't grind... Kent
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks as alway guys, I'll try to get that adjusted this weekend if I get the chance. We have out of town guests coming in, so who knows when the opportunity will present itself. If not this weekend, then definitely next week... right after I get the mower deck height adjusted. It just took me 3 reads through the manual to figure that one out. This old brain is just too pickled from the excesses of my youth. Leo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
×
×
  • Create New...