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dav

fiber disc spacers

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dav
finally decided to change the original disc on the B-1. i wasn't worried about it breaking but it did make one hellacious racket. the rubber has unbonded from one of the steel plates. i have a fiber disc to replace it with. my question is; where should i put spacers? should the fiber sit flush against the drive shaft or should there be a fat washer/spacer between the shaft and the disc? or does it make any difference? the disc at the BGB has already been changed. it has the fiber disc against the driveshaft and 3 spacers on the BGB side of it. when i worked on my Big Ten, the discs had fat washer/spacers on both sides at each bolt

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stevenj
They are not ordinary flat washers on either side of the fiberglass disk. They are thicker and have a smaller OD and the spacers have to be installed so that the rounded edge of the spacer is against the fiberglass disk and the sharp cornered edge of the spacer is against the steel driveshaft or yoke.

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Glen112
It would not surprise me that three spacers would be needed. Replacing the thicker fiber disks with the thin ones results in the need to make up the extra space. In some archived posts, that others have made up the difference with extra washers and bushing spacers. I went a little different route with my 725. In one of my more productive trips to the steel supplier to go through the scrap bin, I found about a 4-foot long piece of 1-1/4" x 5/8" steel bar. I try to stop by about once a month to replenish my stock. I get whatever I pick out for the current "drop" price, usually around $0.50 per pound. I used this bar stock to make a continuous spacer that essentially became an extension of the end of the drive shaft. Here are some pictures (not real good, but I had them available). I rounded the edges to make it the same shape as the end of the drive shaft.




Here is a closeup of one of the pictures:


I still needed a pair of bushings on the flywheel side and an additional washer against my bar stock to make up the total difference. No bushings were used at the BGB end which was connected as shown in Ray's post. The special rounded-edge washers were used against the fiberglass disks, as Steven indicated in his post. I feel I ended up with a much better end product than if I had stacked a bunch of bushings and washers. Glen

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jbird243
I loosing the engine mount bolts when reinstalling the disks and washers on the drive shaft.--- After all the drive-shaft disk bolts are tight--- I run the engine the engine for about 5 minutes to let it seat itself and re-tighten the engine mount bolts establishing less tension on the disks during operation.

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dav
thanks to all for the imput. i rearranged the spacer washers at the bgb, then put the fiber washer on the front end. fortunately, the spacing worked out perfectly. i did not have to move the yoke on the bgb. i tried to move it but it is stuck where it's at. since the bgb seems to be in good condition-no excess play in the gears or the shafts-i will leave well enough alone. the B-1 is a worker and not slated for restoration (although i keep saying i am going to get the dent out of the hood)

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Dark
for the dent heat up the hood with a heat lamp so its very hot to touch then purchase a spray can of liquid freeze spray it on the hot dent surface and pop it will pull out on its own...Note: will not work on deep stretch marks. Used this system for removing hail damage in dealership parking lots made alot quick cash on a hot sunny weekend. the cans of freeze was at the time 10 bucks. [url]http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PTR-7400/FREEZE-SPRAY-10-OZ-CAN/-/1.html[/url]


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