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mike_sdak

traction for my 917...

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mike_sdak
First time I have used the snowblower for my 917, today. Not enough traction. I added the tiller to the rear, hoping that would help, but it didn't much (and the tines drug on the ground..). What's the best way to increase traction? Chains, weights, ag tires, or a combination of these? Also, it has been reluctant to start. I have been running 20w-50 "high mileage" due to oil consumption in the kt-17. Any tips on cold starting and winter use? Thanks in advance,

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jlasater
Wheel weights and chains should give you plenty of traction. AG tires won't do much on packed snow and ice. I just put a 50 pound wheel weight on each rear rim of my 716H.

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427435
Chains make the biggest difference and then weight. Get some Mobil 1 0w-40 and your engine will crank like summer (and you will still have 40 weight oil when the engine is warm).

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MPH
With 20-50 I'm surprized it cranks at all. Been through your town a few times in the winter, didn't see any bananna trees growing. I recommend either syn oil or a heat pad on the bottom of the oil pan.

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Ronald Hribar
I had 26x12x12 AG lug tires on My 7117 with 20hp KLohler wheel weights, tires were NOT filled, plenty of weight on seat. NO problem with traction. Tiller is good idea, but you have to secure it it in UP position. Agree with others get rid of that oil.

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acfarmer
On the oil I run 15-40 diesel fleet oil in all my engines and have had no starting problems this year down to 10 degrees.On the weight issue simple enough to build a weight box that fits the Simplicity hitch and I like to fill the box with log chains as they're easy to get in and out and don't roll around.

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Brettw
And if you haven't been,be sure to depress the brake / clutch pedal when trying to start it. Takes the load of spinning the trans off the starter.

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ac.d17iv
Adding window washer fluid helps add cheap weight. I have 6 gallons in each of my 23x10.5x12 Carlisle All Trails and do fine with no chains. In ice, chains are the only option.

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Michiganmobileman
Chains for sure!! I have a 919 with wheel weights and chains and a 7016 with just chains, no weight. They both do very well with the 42 inch blower on although the 7016 is a little wild if going fast in reverse and turning sharp. Greg

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MikeES
Also pump up the front tires, so they are somewhat rounded instead of flat across the face. It will be easier to turn with the weight of the snowthrower, easier to roll (traction) and it will be more inclined to turn on the snow and ice.

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jrichason
I used to use just ag tread tires on my 7116. It worked OK, but not great. I might have to back up and take a couple runs at getting the blower through the pile the snow plow leaves. I put chains on a couple years ago and couldn't believe the difference. It will keep going pretty much until the engine stalls. My tractor has a lot of balast in the seat so I don't worry about wheel weights.

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mike_sdak
Hey, Thanks for all the ideas! I have learned quite a bit in this thread: Yes, the 20-50 is a bad idea when it has routinely dipped below zero (-29 twice so far) Maybe that's why it only started with a space heater on it..... No, I haven't been clutch/braking it <ever> when starting, I didn't realize the benefit of that. I'll remember next time... Chains will be in my future, and then maybe weight(s) As for the tiller, is there an "up" position? How do I do this? Thanks,

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Ronald Hribar
The rear lift is operated with a cable. Raise tiller and secure tiller in up position with a chain, rope what evever means you have Do you have hydro lift? Electric lift ? Manual? what ever you have , it must be hard lifting too items at once.

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mike_sdak
Fellas, 1. There is some packed snow, but no ice. My driveway is gravel, but it undulates some. The slightest depression or a small pile of snow ahead of the wheels (2" or so) - causes it to spin. 2. Hydro lift, yep, it is lifting both implements at once, but surprisingly easily... Anyway, on my old JD 317, the tiller depth could be set by a cam-shaped stop, with a bunch of holes in it - you simply pinned it and it wouldn't go any deeper. If I recall, it allowed you to lock it high enough for transport mode. Anyway, How would you lock the simplicity tiller "up" while being mounted to the upper sleeve, which is tied to the hydro lift? As an alternate to the tiller, I thought about fabricating some sort of a bracket which would mount to all three points on the rear hitch, and hold a ballast-box or similar. As a simpler, cheaper alternate (maybe)- I thought about pouring concrete wheel weights, with 1/2" carriage bolts cast in the proper places to mount to the wheel. I think I would use a 5-gallon pail or similar container to mold the concrete. If I made it about 8" thick, it would be about 50-55 # per weight. Has anyone done similar??

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RayS
Here is a cheap set. http://cgi.ebay.com/WHEEL-WEIGHTS-12-TracWeights-for-Lawn-Garden-Tractor_W0QQitemZ260512457750QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ca7c0a416

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mike_sdak
OK, one more question..... 4-link maxtrac-type chains (55.00/pair at my local TSC) or 2-link twisted-link type chains (55.00 plus 13.00 shipping from tirechains.com) For what it's worth, I mostly need traction in deep snow and I don't currently have any pavement. Slopes are pretty gentle.

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mike_sdak
OK, I went out and bought a pair of 2-link twisted link type chains. I hope they do the trick. Thanks for all the input. Also, since I now became a member, I saw some of the other neat resources on this site, including the excellent tire chain article.

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Cvans
Take it from someone else in SD. The money you spent for the chains was well spent. I have about 175 lbs of weight on the rear and chains on turf tires and there is no stopping this tractor with the blower on the front. 3414 with 42" blower. Your not going to believe the difference:D Chris

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