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Adding Hydro Lift


SteveP

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If you are adding the charge pump driven hydrolift that came on the 7100 series tractors, you will have to start with a hydrostatic transmission in the tractor. Next purchase the lift valve and handle, and the lift cylinder. Valves off a 7100, Sunstar, or PowerMax will all fit. A cylinder off a Sunstar can be used if you can't find one from a 7100. You will have to grind a couple flats on each side of the rod and the cylinder mount so that it will fit into the rockershaft and chassis mount. You will also need the bar which bridges across the rear of the frame to mount the hydrolift cylinder to. You can either purchase the factory tubing and hoses, or have custom hoses made at a hydraulic shop, like I did. Hook everything up according to the diagram in the manual for a hydrolift tractor. The pressure relief valves will need to be changed as shown in the following diagram.


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Subscribed. Great thread as I will be doing this same thing once I get the tractor running. Have the valve and ram sitting on the shelf waiting :J
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My hydrolift installation was on my AC 716H. Pardon the paint job, I haven't redone that yet. It was when I was doing this tractor that I developed the picture I posted above about the pressure control valves. The hydrolift works great on this 716H. I used a Sunstar cylinder and a PowerMax valve with float. 7100 and Sunstar valves do not have float. The hydrolift lever on this tractor is actually a shuttle lever from an AC 410S.


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[url]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=69964&SearchTerms=hydro[/url] Bob looks much happier these days: 1) He had bumped his head on my bikes at least a half dozen times that day and, 2) He's now retired!
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Great thread, I have a 7114 with electric lift but it is painfully slow for plowing when compared to hydraulic...I would love to convert this summer.
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But not the early ones. My father-in-law has Allis 917H with a manual lift, that I got for him and it does not have the welded bushing.
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It'd be a whole lot less time consuming and probably less $$$$ to buy a 7100/900 series with a bad engine and swap your engine then you have a parts tractor also.
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I used the shuttle lever from a 410 because the tube and bushing from that bolted into the chassis on the 410. By using that I did not have to align and weld a bushing into the frame. I just drilled a hole for the bushing to go through and a couple mounting holes to bolt down the flange.
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I cannot remember what I used for a bushing, but it was bolted in as well. I used stock hydrolift lever. Used all factory parts (Smiling Sam Supplies) like putting legos together. That is Erics loader tractor now.
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