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RUMBLEFISH

3 Questions

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RUMBLEFISH
I bought new wheel bearings but the online parts outfits dont have the washers used to but up against the outsides of the bearings. Are the ones Im using not big enough? [IMG]http://i50.tinypic.com/2ryhnuw.jpg[/IMG] I also didnt pound the race all the way to the stops which I think Im suppose to do. I was worried about doing some damage to them. I was using a brass dowel since I thru out the old races which I dont think was a smart thing to do. Any trick to getting these things to go all the way into the rests inside the rim? [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/2wecqxf.jpg[/IMG] Last but not least what is this for? [IMG]http://i49.tinypic.com/ld6d5.jpg[/IMG]

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ReedS
The races need to be installed to the stops, you can use the brass drift but a large socket (or something similar) that makes full contact (on the flat) with the race will work better. Even better than a hammer and drift of any kind would be a press. Also check the wheel bores for any marring etc so that the races don't bind on anything but the stops. Those inside wheel bearings will need seals if you expect them to last any length of time as well. The last photo is a wedge used in a hammer handle to keep the head on. Good luck!

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RUMBLEFISH
All they show are washers on the two sites I get parts from unless I am missing something. I would make sense that some type of seal should be installed but cant find one anywhere. Can someone confirm if the have wheel seals on the fronts? The socket trick is a great idea and if I don't feel comfortable with that I will take them to a shop to have them pressed.

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RUMBLEFISH
well I got the bearings seated correctly and thanks for the socket tip. I dont even want to mention the axe handle wedge. Just the last question about the front wheels and lack of a wheel seal.Can anyone take a look at a ac or landlord and tell me what it has? Thanks

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Simpleton7016
sorry to pick on you Rick, but I have been looking for an opportunity to use this and your username seems to fit the bill. In the end, just know I am kidding and you don't need to change a thing. Just having some fun, but here goes:
[img]/club2/attach/Simpleton7016/capslock11.jpg[/img]

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RUMBLEFISH
HEY NO PROBLEM I LIKE THE POSTER AND THINK I WILL USE IT MYSELF SOMETIME. Reason for the cap locks on my Sig. [IMG]http://i49.tinypic.com/8yhndh.jpg[/IMG] :D

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TomSchmit
Since you used bearings that did not have an integral seal, the seal that you need looks like a washer with a rubber skirt around the hole. I know they are available, but I can't find my invoice of where I bought them from ... I think it was Jacks (one of the site sponsors). I suggest you call Jacks and ask if they have just the seals - they will not be too expensive. Your bearings will not last very long without the grease seals. Tom

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MPH
Though I have used sockets to drive in bearing races if I can find a piece of pipe I perfer that as a nice sq cut on the pipe gives better contact then the bevel edge of my sockets.

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TomSchmit
I found it ... the seal is Part number 2170168SM I purchased them from Tennies Hardware (a sponsor) quite a while ago - they still have them for less than 5 dollars each. These are shown in the Simplicity repair manual for later model Landlord DLX tractors. P/N 2170168SM is a "SEAL" that is separate from the bearings. The bearings shown in this diagram are the same part number as used on older landlords for the outside (no seal) bearings (See pages 6 and 7 of this .pdf linked below). http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=jgEDGP_dsK4tG9EIb7mRgtLvBCd6 You might also want to buy a couple of the spacers shown as P/N 2171375SM "SPACER-0.753IDX1.062OD", for $2.90 each. I found them much better than the washers to position the wheel where I wanted it on the spindle shaft. Now that I look at this again, I am going to order a few of those seals myself - maybe use them on teh outboard bearings, too! Tom in Milwaukee

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