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seized piston....again.


tracteur

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Well some of you folks have suggested me to use some MarvelMysteryOil,now I will try to find some up here(Québec),and when I do find it,and put some on the head of the piston,I'll wait a few days,and then if it his still stuck,would it help if I put some heat on the block,to help the oil to seep down the piston wall ? That is if it's not stuck on the cam.
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I don't think lubricating oil is what you really need. You need a penetrating fluid like WD40 or PB Blaster. A couple of light bulbs wired against the block wouldn't hurt anything and might help.
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A seized piston is metal-to-metal and doesn't involve rust. Odds of the piston just coming loose on it's own with a penetrating oil is slim to none. Some force is going to be necessary.
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Marvel Mystery is great at preparing a seized motor,but like has been said, some force will be needed to break everything loose. I would fill the crankcase to overflowing with the Marvel,stand the engine upside down in a pan,and let it sit for a few days. After that, drain everything,replace the spark plug with a 1/4 inch air fitting,and hook 120 psi air to it. If that didn't move anything it would help to have a pulley on the front shaft to have something to turn back and forth. Resorting to the old "Vice grips on shaft" technique can really mar everything up if you don't use a little common sense.
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Has anyone tried "engine release"? http://www.seized-engine.com/engine-seized-up.html I have a seized farmall engine, I am thinking of trying this.
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Mike I have freed up Farmall engines by removing the plugs and filling the cylinders with diesel fuel, kerosene, ATF, marvel mystery oil what ever I had on hand. (Use your favorite) Also pouring some into the exhaust manifold. Then with the transmission in gear jack up a rear wheel and attach a come-along from the top spoke of the rear wheel to the front axle and put tension on the cable and let it set. after a day push down on the cable increasing the tension a little you might find it is a little tighten it back up put more oil into the cylinders as it what was in there will leak into the oil pan. Continue this process for a few days. One time you push down on the cable it will move real easy. I has taken me 2 days but usually takes 3 or 4 days depending how bad it is stuck.
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Maynard, Thanks for the idea - that looks like a good one. I did pour a quart of ATF into the cylinders and exhaust pipe in about August, and tried rocking the tractor, etc, for a week or two. Nothing. My hand-crank is seized, so I am unable to use that to turn the engine. Maybe after a half of a year with ATF on the pistons, it is free? I'll need to check.
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Mike On my brother in-laws M he broke the hand crank trying to turn it. He had tried for a couple of weeks before he broke the crank ears in the front pulley. The come-along puts constant pressure on it and a lot more than you can put by rocking it. The second day he went to push down on the cable and almost went on his face because he wasn't expecting it to be loose.
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Gramps used heating oil AKA diesel fuel AKA K1 AKA K2 on everything and often would heat it super hot in a can with a torch before he poured it into a cylinder or on a part....
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Thanks UCD &SDAK for the referral on the Engine Release site. The company his close to home. I surely will get me some and let the club know about it.
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We loosen up a I H w4 by brazing a grease fitting in a spark plug put it in a hole that the valves are closed and pumping it with a grease gun .Took a few tubes of grease but it did break it free.Make sure you put it in a hole with both valves closed.
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The best stuff on the market period is Kroil,made by Kano Labs in my opinion.I have been using it for years and works wonders.It is a type of machine oil and can only be gotten too my knowledge on line.Google search Kano kroil.It is not that expensive and for rusty parts or seized parts I do not believe their is any thing better.Take my opinion for what its worth but it will not hurt too try.
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