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Snow Blower Bearings


joelk

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After noticing that my 42" single belt (990604) snowthrower was making a lot of racket, it seems my bearings may be (are) shot. I am probably machincally challenged compared to most on this board, but that's what makes these things fun as I usually able to fix most anything that breaks. My question is what needs to come apart to get these bearing out and or the auger out? I don't want to do any more work than necessary, so I thought I would ask the brain trust here first. I didn't find any threads on blower bearings, but if there is one please direct me there as well. Also do you know the bearing model number and is the simplicity dealer the only place to get them? Thanks for your help. *UPDATE* FYI I found the Timkin bearings (details below) at Bearings Inc (in Germantown WI). These bearings are virtually identical to the ones I removed. There is a few options depending on whether you have grease zirc or not on your existing housing. As pointed out by steve-wis, the housing unbolts and just sandwiches the bearing, so as long as the replacement is the same size, it will just bolt back up the same as the OEM. The re-greasable units have two small holes in the outer race to allow grease to enter, whereas the non re-greasable units have no holes on the outer race. You can order either the two set screw type, or the eccentric locking collar type. The eccentric locking collar is slightly wider than the set screw, but there should be plenty of room for either type on the shaft. Here is the information on the Timkins (easy to buy anywhere on the web as well.) PART# (all 1" shaft size) RA100RRB + COL, not re-greasable with eccentric locking collar GRA100RRB + COL, re-greasable with eccentric locking collar YA100RRB, not regreasable with two set screws GYA100RRB, re-greasable with two set screws About $16 ea. Hope this help, good luck and happy blowing.
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Your blower number doesn`t come up. The bearing part number is 2173934SM and is superceded to 1733105SM. It is about $24.00 not sure what a aftermarket number is. http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=heCBEN8arG6rE3Cvh5kbp796Dq http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=heCBEN8arJ7rE3Cvh5kbp796Dq http://simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=91074&SearchTerms=snowblower%2Cbearing
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Just had a friend replace his on a blower that is 42 inch that is about 16 years old. He found that the bearing is a three pc. unit, with a bearing and two covers or plates that sandwich the bearing. He bought bearings from a local bearing supplier for about $6 each and reused the plates, and is working fine. If yours are the ones that come apart like that you can just get a bearing from most suppliers, not sure if you can from oem or not. Also interesting, after he told me that I looked at my two blowers, one on an Allis 810 and the other a yeoman fdt. One has grease fittings and one does not. I think the newer one has them but the older one doesn't but might be backwards on that. I just wondered why the change. Steve
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I have found that you can sometimes replace a bearing without grease fittings with one that has fittings, depending on how & where they mount and whether or not you would be able to get to it to grease it. In the case of the bearings that are sandwiched in the plates you describe, one of the plates would have a zerk fitting on it, there are gaskets for the plates to help keep out contaminants & retain the grease, and the bearing shell has a tiny hole drilled through it to aid the travel of grease. My snowmobile drive shaft OEM bearing was not greaseable. When i replaced it i went to my local "equipment" shop - it helps that they manufacture certain ag equipmnet, repair lots of heavy & ag equipment & have a hardware store & machine shop. They matched everything so i could make the swap. Once you can regularly grease a bearing(and actually do), replacement becomes a rare occurence & all that time comes back to you.
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Thanks for the advice guys. Mine did not have the grease zerks, but will look at adding them. I have one side out but am stuck removing the key from the shaft on the drive side. Do you have any good tricks for this?
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Never mind about the key, I got it to go. By the way, my blower is a 564 not 604, no wonder it couldn't be found on the tech site. Now to get the old completely shot bearing off the shaft and I'll be good to go.
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The bearings have eccentric locks on them. To remove loosen the set screw and take a punch in the empty hole on the front side and hit it down counter clock wise looking from the sprocket side (right side facing blower) and clock wise from the other side (left side facing blower. To lock reverse process the The locks should be turned in the oposit direction of rotation of auger.
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quote:
Originally posted by joelk
After noticing that my 42" single belt (990604) snowthrower was making a lot of racket, it seems my bearings may be (are) shot. I am probably machincally challenged compared to most on this board, but that's what makes these things fun as I usually able to fix most anything that breaks. My question is what needs to come apart to get these bearing out and or the auger out? I don't want to do any more work than necessary, so I thought I would ask the brain trust here first. I didn't find any threads on blower bearings, but if there is one please direct me there as well. Also do you know the bearing model number and is the simplicity dealer the only place to get them? Thanks for your help.
Joel, Your snowthrower #990564 calls out the bearing cartidge #106732 which is the same# as my 36" thrower 990345 The # is NLA. Check with Brenda at Sandy Lake Implement (one of our sponsors) She was able to cross-reference the simplicity part# to an Agco# for me. The Agco# is: 71308951 and it was cheaper at the time. Good luck.......
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bearing 106732 supercedes to the bearing I have listed above. Sandy Lake is excellent to deal with. I bought my revitalizer from Bill several years ago at the Portland, IN. show. http://www.jackssmallengines.com/searchdb2.cfm
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