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Big Ten with no spark


BJennings

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OK this is getting confusing so I will try to sort this out and hope someone will correct me if I mess up. 1. Electronic ignition module..replaces points and condensor on Briggs. It is a flat 50cent size piece with little cooling fins on it that is mounted on the engine. The original coil in the flywheel is still used. 2. Magnetron ignition(is this the right name?)...a replacement for the existing coil in the flywheel. Requires repolarizing the flywheel. Still used existing condensor and points(not sure about this last keeping the points thing) 3. Battery ignition. Bypasses the in flywheel coil and mounts an external coil(like those in cars but with internal resistor) so spark plug wire comes from this new coil. Uses old points and a 12v condensor. The flywheel does not need to be repolarized or even pulled off for this. Whew!! Please correct my mistakes but I think this is the basic. Ken W
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My Big Ten doesn't have any spark at the plug. I checked the point gap which was fine. I stuck a test light on the points and am getting current across the points, but it seems weak. I get nothing when I check at the plug though. Does anyone know where I should go from here?
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If it isn't a bad condenser and you are still on the original mag you might consider conversion to battery ignition. It is a lot simpler than pulling the engine to service the mag and it will start better. Ron
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I just spoke with my B&S parts dealer and they told me about an electronic ignition replacement for $37.75 to do away with the points and condensor. Does anyone have any experience with one of these? He said that instructions were included but I like to know ahead of time what I might be dealing with!
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I got one and think it could be a good idea but never put it in. I have a 725 Simplicity (basically same as B-1) I was hoping to use the electronic module and convert to a 12v battery ignition but you must use points with the 12v battery system. I purchased all Kohler parts from Jacks including the coil(included a with mounting bracket), condensor and plug wire. I also got a new non grounding ignition switch from a local auto supply. I took pictures and am in the process of writing up the steps to give to Kent if he wants them. The advantage of the coil is quicker starts in cold weather, easier to do than disconnect the driveshaft and pull the flywheel, allows lower idling. Disadvantage is it is not stock but if you take care in its mounting it is not unsightly. I learned about this from the experts on this site, never heard of it before visiting here. Good Luck Ken Williams
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dont convert to battery ignition you must send the flywheel to a place to have the magnetic feilds reversed you need a new mag i would not mess with battery ignition
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Is the Battery Ignition the same as the Electronic Ignition that my dealer told me about? He didn't say anything about having the fields reversed to switch to the electronic ignition.
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I just posted a problem that i had with my B-10 just earlier this week you can see it a few postings down. I had a very similar problem. I found my problem last night. It was 2 things i had the wire from the magneto to the points had a worn spot in it and was grounding to the engine block. And i also had a faulty key switch and that was easliy fixed just by removing the wire from the switch to the points. All the key switch does is go to ground in the off mode which kills the engine. The key in the on position would let the tractor start once in a while but if you moved the key around while it was running just a little bit it would cause the tractor to die. My suggestion is to exhaust the possablity of your wireing being bad before you start changeing things. I started by using an ohm meter or a multi meter to check the resistence across each wire to find any shorts or breaks. It shouldnt take long the nice thing is theres only about 10 wires. Good Luck
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Brad, Unhook the wires on the fiber bourd located on the points cover. Tape the ends of the wires to prevent grounding, turn the engine over. If there is no spark the problem is in the points, condensor, and or coil. I would put a Megatron ignition on it. It eleminates the use of the points and condensor. You must have the flywheel repolorized. B&S will do this for free. Here is their number 414-259-5333. They will tell you were to ship it. Do not put a battery ignition on it. The problem with these old motors is the points plunger sticks and the points lobe on the cam wears down after 30 years. Plus, you will never know if the flywheel key shears until it is to late. My B-110 fired right up in the winter, even at -10 degreesF. Hope this helps. Ryan
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Hi Brad, I have a B-112 that needed a coil when I bought it. So after I looked it over I decided on an electronic ignition as well because the previous owner had the points and condensor out and all the wires were just dangling. I went to the local NAPA and bought the coil (about $30.00) and the electronic ignition (about $12.00), I think thoses prices are accurate, anyway the engine had to come out to do the coil so wiring this is a snap. There are two wires that go to the points and they both need to go to the electronic module (wiring instructions are included) if after you finish you do not have spark just reverse the wires and she should start right up. P.S. with this set up you do not need to have the poles reversed on the fly wheel. I hope this will help you out. Rich.
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