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Rudy

HB212 Differential

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Rudy
Update from Rudy, Took the wheel off and found: 1. 2 Teath stripped on hud gear. 2. 2 bolt loose and 1 broken off from the inner bolt circle on differential. So now the qustions are: 1. Can the gear be replaced or is this a whole new hub? 2. Why did the bolts loosen and one break? (I think that it might be that a previous owner/repair guy screwed it up) 3. Can the set screws be replaced with cap bolts? (this is one of the original questions) 4. Where are the missing gear teeth? Does this mean I have to take the differential apart? If so, how do I do that? Rudy

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Rudy
The right wheel slips and 'clunks'. I have the wheel off and the cap screws mentioned in the manual turn out to be Allen set screws. I think I'm looking at the right ones. The manual says to set these at 25ft lbs. I can't do it with set screws. Can I change these to regular cap screws of the proper size? This is assuming that the 'clunk' is a result of this being out of adjusment. Any thoughts on what could cause the problem? I've taken the set screws out so I guess I still have to change them to set the right torque. By the way. The oly manual I have is for a 1970 Sovereign Rudy

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Kent
happyjack---happyjackl@mediaone.net I know I will time out! Rudy & Dennis, #1 the gear can be replaced if-it is in still in good enough condition..but from the sounds of it someone reinstalling the hub gear with bolts I would say it isn't. The gear is normally held onto the hub with pins that are pressed in and over time the stress of the gear going back and forth causes play to develope in the holding pins and then the gear loosens up causing some binding in side the diff on the spider gears. This would explain the 2 teeth missing. Here's the problem-these hubs with the tension hub"which is what you have" are no longer available "but" you can buy a replacement hub that has the gear on it but is lacking the 2 bolts that are used for fiction on the tension hub. I have replaced them before with the newer stlye hub like I just explained and there is some loss of traction but but the tractors are still very useable. You may not even notice the difference if your hub was worn out anyway and in the winter time with chains and wheel weights you still will be in good shape. The cost of the newer style hub is somewhere around $80 but please don't qoute me on this. Sorry to say but yes the diff. should be taken apart..but one way of looking at it is that you should inspect it regardless for worn gears and bushings. The keys and keyways should also be checked for wear and play in them and replace keys as needed along with deburring any of the keyways so that the new keys seat tight in their keyways. THe point that I am trying to make is once you have it tore down doing it all write will not only save you time from breakdowns but also just maybe some money. In my opinion if you are not mechanically inclined I would suggest having someone do this work for you. The diffs. without the springs in them like yours are not hard to rebuild compared to the newer diff.s with them. To take the diff. apart just look at the bolts that hold the cover on verses the bolts that hold the diff. to the inner axle shaft hub and you will see that there are I think 5 bolts to take out and then the outer half of the diff. cover will pull off. Personally I would pull the whole diff. off as a unit by removing the bolts that hold it to the inner axle shaft hub this way you can put it on a nice clean bench or what ever and completely go thru it. Your manual for the 1970 should show how to take apart the diff. with the springs but the only difference is yours does not have the springs so just delete them for reference. As you take it apart try to remember just how it came apart or even take pictures of it if you can with a cam corder for later use. There are some spacers that might also need replacing at this time and these need to be put back exactly in order in other words if you removed 3 from one area thats exactly how many need to go back there. You will find the teeth in the diff. and you don't want them to get between the spider gears where they can cause more damage. For grease after putting it back together just use regular wheel bearing grease and have alot of rags and or paper towels around. You might find that the spider gears are worn to a sharp edge and need replacing at this time also. You can purchase the gears and bushing to rebuild the diff. or you might check to see if someone has a good used one. Personally I like the idea of rebuilding one so that I know the condition of it with the new parts. You might also find a used tension hub but they can be hard to find depending on your area. You can also remove the diff. and take it to your local dealer for him to rebuild it and then reinstall it your self. I hope this helps but maybe someone else can add to this. Best of luck to you both, >>->happyjack<-<<

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Rudy
happyjack, Thanks. That is the information that I need. Except it isn't clear to me how to pull the differential off the axle. A bigger hammer? It seems you are saying that the inner bolts have to be removed first before pulling. The manual that I have is not very explicet. Also, can the broken gear be replaced or is that a whole new hub? Can you give me some details on removing the diff. Thanks for your help. Rudy

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