ketchk 1 Posted February 4, 2010 I probably know the answer already but i'm hoping some one knows better im trying to remove a rusted exhaust pipe from my engine it screws into the cylinder i got the locking nut loosened after 2 days of kroil soaking but not the pipe yet im afraid if i snap it off flush with the engine im beat. my plan is a few more days soaking i got the engine on its side so i get a puddle around the pipe that and tapping with a hammer to loosen the rust any ideas thanks Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
osenga 1 Posted February 4, 2010 I had that on a K321s would not budge. So I went to my neighbors house since he is a farmer and got a big pipe wrench. And it came out and yes it did creak and crack sounded like it was going to snap off but it came out ok and all in one peice Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Willy 2 Posted February 4, 2010 I would put a pipe wrench on it apply a little pressure and tap on the end of the pipe like you were trying to drive it into the block. With pressure on it and smacking it it should give up and come loose. Good luck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xenon172 0 Posted February 4, 2010 Pipe wrench and heat. Worst case you might have to cut it out which is delicate procedure and a real pain in the neck. Only had to do this once but it does happen Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OrangeMetalGuy 20 Posted February 4, 2010 Lots of Kroil and patience. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Burntime 1 Posted February 4, 2010 I had one I soaked for 2 days. In the end I heated it up and hit it with penetrating oil, put a big pipe wrench on it and "crack" out it came in one piece... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Storm7012 0 Posted February 4, 2010 I've had to cut two of them out. It's not that bad. Die grinder and cutting bit and go slow. Make two or three cuts and it just pulls out in pieces. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ketchk 1 Posted February 4, 2010 Thanks for the feedback im going to soak for about a week in Koil its to cold out in NJ right now to work anyway. And hope for the best Storm 7012 i did not think of that just go slow thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BLT 708 Posted February 4, 2010 The exhaust hole should be big enough with the broken piece in place to get in with a hack saw blade only and make four shallow cuts at ninety degrees each and then with a drift punch drive down the parts in between the saw marks with a hammer and break loose the thread contact to where you should be able to grab a piece of the pipe and rotate it out with a pliers. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/BLT/mufflerIII.JPG Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimDk 0 Posted February 4, 2010 Andy, Don't use too much force on a big pipe wrench. The block can be broken. Bob's method is the safest. I have removed several that way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimH 1 Posted February 5, 2010 I've used large vise-grips and heat along with Castle "Thrust" penetrating spray. Tap on vise-grips with a hammer. Has worked several times for me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ketchk 1 Posted February 5, 2010 im in day 3 of soaking using Kroil and PB Blaster im going to wait 5 days and try ill let you know. the pipe is not rusted out yet but im trying to do a total rebuild here is a Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Storm7012 0 Posted February 5, 2010 Nice looking ol'landlord. Should be a good one to restore, don't need a lot. How's that exhaust coming? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ketchk 1 Posted February 5, 2010 Im still soaking in kroil im going to give it till tomorrow and try again Thanks for the die grinder idea i never thought of that Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toomanytractors 0 Posted February 5, 2010 Try taking two hammers and beating simultanously? on opposite sides if the pipe as close to the block as possible. In other words, strike opposite sides of the pipe at the same time. I've had this work on many problems such as this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kenmill1958 0 Posted February 5, 2010 I have soaked with Kroil as you are. Then try tightening just a little. Then loosen. Work it back and forth. It should come loose. A little heat always helps too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RayS 79 Posted February 6, 2010 If the engines runs let it warm up to operating temperature and use a pipe wrench to break it loose while it is hot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ketchk 1 Posted February 6, 2010 yea i soaked 5 days and nothing ill try to let it run then try again when its hot if not it looks like cutting it out is the only option Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DaleC 2 Posted February 6, 2010 I have put a socket inside the pipe so it will not crush and used a pipe wrench on it to get it to loosen. Blaster works well and then be patient and us the tap tap of a hammer on the handle of the pipe wrench to break it loose. It will loosen. Just be patient. Good things come to those who wait (i.e., don't get in to big of a hurry). Tap tap tap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ketchk 1 Posted February 6, 2010 was just looking at a Harbor Freight catalog and found a electric body saw looks like a miniature saws all for 20 bucks looks like a perfect way to saw inside the pipe If any one don't know check out their site tools VERY cheap and yea i agree you get what you pay for but I've had one of their grinders 15.00 for over 2 years so for the tools you need but don't use every day they are great ive bought from them for years and have been disappointed only once or twice Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Storm7012 0 Posted February 6, 2010 Your going to need to run the threds in the block when your done, just to clean them up. Well, I, do anyway.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites