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darren7116

oil

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darren7116
Hi guys, I recently had my 7116 Briggs motor rebuilt.I was using shell rotella sae30 weight oil in the tractor last year when the motor was using oil. My question is now that the motor is rebuilt what is your opinions on what grade and type of oil i should use for summer and winter? I use to use 30 weight in summer and 10w30 in winter.I do like the shell rottella oil, i have no problem finding 30 weight but i don't think they make 10w30. and can i use just plain shell 10w30 since i cant find the rottella in 10w30? or is there any other brands i should look at? OK I'm just curious, thanks guys.

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BLT
I would go the Briggs web site and get the operators manual for model 326437 type 0649-01 and use their recommdations as a base. And if you like Shell proudcts you should be able to get all.

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RayS

[img]/club2/attach/RayS/oil.jpg[/img]
This is right out of the Briggs operator manual.


This off of a newer 326437 (16hp). The decal is on the air cleaner.

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Les
The reason that manufacturers used to recomend only single weight oil in air cooled engines is that you can have some uneven cooling(as opposed to a liquid cooled engine). This is why Briggs tend to burn exhaust valves. What can happen is that the oil can get overheated and can break down the VI improver, turning your 10W30 into straght 10W. With the newer oils and newer engines this is probably not a concern, it was probably far fetched to begin with as most people would change oil long before the HPDM(the VI improver) would break down. Alot of people say that oil is all the same as it has to meet API standards. This is only partially true. The add pack is the same but there is a difference in base oils. Shell for instance, will use E85 base oil, and will use a "straight" base. With and E85 oil, 85% of the individual oil molecules will be within the stated molecular weight range as measured by HPLC(High Performance Liquid Chromatograph). This means that the oil will have similar flow characteristics with synthetic, which can be over E95. Using what I call a straight base means that if you are making 10W30, you start with a 10 weight base oil, then add enough VI improver to make it a 10W30. Cheaper oils will contain cheaper base oils, may start with a mixed base(i.e 5W plus 20W divided by 2 equals 10), they may contain partially recycled oil, or worst of all, may contain line flush. There is also a lot of imported low quality HPDM around, a couple of years ago Conoco/Phillips got a bad batch and some oil even hit store shelves before it was caught, the same thing happened to Quaker State back in 1980(that kind of tells you how long I have been in the chemical business). Would I use Wal Mart oil? Sure, I know the people who make it(know em, dont trust em!)but I would probably change it more often. I change oil in my air cooled engines at least once a year anyway. For the little bit of extra money I am now running snythetic in my Conquest and in my Grand Marquis. Synthetic oil was invented by the Germans in World War II for use in their tanks on the Russian front. The parrifin mineral oil gelled up at 40 below.

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UCD
A further note on what Les mentioned above 10w-40 oil will break down before a 10w-30 http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=109901 I use 5w-30 Mobile One in my tractors and Motor-home and 5w-40 in the legacy XL diesel. I change the oil in them all once a year. Is it over kill? Yes maybe, but they are my vehicles and my money and I would rather spend it on oil than have to replace an engine.

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427435
quote:
Originally posted by Burntime
Uh, oh, here comes a fist fight:D:D:D
ngr2 ngr2 ngr2 ngr2 Get your game face on!! :D :D Considering that the typical small engine only takes 2-3 quarts (some less), use a good synthetic. I've used Mobil 1 15w-50 for many year with excellent results. I've gone to Mobil 1 0w-40 in the tractor on the snow blower for even better starting and will probably use it across the board to keep things simple. The 7790 diesel will get Mobil 1 5w-40 diesel oil when I get it together again. None of my engines see 50 hours of operation, so they only get one change per year (at most).

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Burntime
Wow, I change mine out 3 times a year. Spring to 30sae (learned something:D), then again mid summer with sae30, then 10w-30 late fall right before the snow. I may try the synthetic. Its only a quart and a half in a kt17 so its like an extra 2 bucks a change. If it starts tinting I change it. Fall it changes quick because the leaves are always choking out the air cleaner.

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xenon172
Almost any brand oil is good if it is changed per the manufactures recommendations. Personally I like Amsoil but I know that everyone has their own preferences

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ka9bxg
Are you suppose to change that stuff. I am changing the oil on a model y I just got It was a little black. I do change the oil on my machines maybe once a year if I use it alot. The best engine I have I never change the oil just keep adding.It is a 1914 eagle

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RUMBLEFISH
I have been using Shell Rotella full syn 5w40 in both my cars and lawn equipment now for a few years with no problems. I have gotten it at Wall Mart for around $19. per gallon which is a decent price.

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Vassal
quote:
Originally posted by RUMBLEFISH
I have been using Shell Rotella full syn 5w40 in both my cars and lawn equipment......
Is that "5w" a typo? I rarely shop at WallyMart so I've only seen the Rotella syn in 15W40. I would like to get this in 5W or 10W version. Thanks for sharing.

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JohnMBerst
Since I only have a fleet of one, try to change about every 35 hours, and summer vs winter. For the two quarts or so, think it's like insurance. (12.5 twin is just splash, no filter) So far it works. But each of us has a method we follow. I'm known to "doctor" the oil a bit, just because I can. (and can rationalize it) And type of oil is what you can afford, and find in your area. ;)

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darren7116
Thanks guys for the advice.I will be checking out the different oils around here where i live in southern Michigan.I don't get on here every day since i don't have Internet at home so i get on line when I'm at my parents.

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427435
Here's a link to Mobil 1's product guide: [url]http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf[/url] There's info on it as to what their various oils are for. It also shows the zinc level in their various oils. Higher levels of zinc are good for bearings and especially heavily loaded camshafts. However, zinc is bad for catalytic converters and it is often reduced in the newest oils.

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