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64 Landlord driveline coupling


ketchk

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Sometimes my short term memory and my medication get the best of me Im trying to reassemble my landlord and have got stumped Im looking at the drawing from simplicity and it makes no sense to me . i have the cup and the flat plate both with 2 round holes and 2 egg shaped holes 2 3/8 x2 bolts and 2 Allen head bolts and 2 longer spacers and 2 shorter spacers do the holes line up as both egg shape and both round mirror each other or or they staggered. dose the 3/8 x2 bolt go through the driveshaft through the coupling into the short spacer and then the engine mount what do i do with the allen bolts? i dont know if this can be answered without a drawing but if someone can explain from one end to the other or at least the hole pattern i feel awful stupid but i need help thanks Andy
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Andy Your question is not very clear. There should not be any egg shaped holes in any of the driveline components. The Allen head bolts do not sound like factory. Can you post a picture or two? John U
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here are a few pics




see what i mean 2 are round and 2 egg shape if i put the 2 long bolts through the drive shaft and put the 2 skinny spacers in the egg shape holes then the 2 larger spacers then into the engine and use the 2 allen bolts in the other holes to hold the cup and plate togeather it makes no sense i cant figure how to assemble it and I TOOK IT APART getting old sucks
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I usually replace the old steel discs witha fiber disc. I thing the egg shape is actually wallered out and not usable. jh
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I think i figured it out the 2 Allen bolts hold the 2 pieces of the disc together and bolt to the drive shaft then the 2 3/8 x2 bolts go into the elongated holes with the skinny spacers then the 2 fatter spacers to the engine in other words the 2 bolts that go to the engine fit with the spacers so it can flex a little I think Andy
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Here are a few pic i think this is how it goes




the 2 Allen bolts hold the disc together and to the drive shaft the 2 3/8 x2 fit into the elongated holes with the skinny spacers and the 2 fatter spacers are at the end into the engine if the engine was not there the bolts would pull out but hooked to the engine it gives it flexibility i Think
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What you show in the pictures is totally wrong. Two bolts with sleeves hold one piece to the engine. The piece goes on first with the sleeves under the heads of the bolts. Two bolts with sleeves hold the other piece to the driveshaft in the same manner. The sleeved bolts on the driveshaft fit into the holes in the piece on the engine, and the sleeved bolts on the flywheel fit into the holes on the driveshaft. The sleeves ride in the holes to transmit the torque, yet allow for some driveshaft misalignment. It just fits together that way and there are "no" bolts that go through the whole assembly. To put the joint together you either need to have the engine loose in the chassis, or will need to slide the yoke on the BGB to the rear to make the necessary assembly clearance. Most times the parts are bolted to the driveshaft and engine when the engine is dropped in the chassis and can be fitted together before bolting the engine down. By the way, I call those "rattle joints" and have replaced them with the later model fiberglass flexplates on my tractors.
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The rubber should be bonded to both steel mounting plates. Not seperate like is shown in the picture. The steel plate needs to be reglued. The alignment should be oblong hole to regular hole, this way the rubber can act as the coupling. Also, the bolts go through the oblong holes with spacers so that the drive shaft will not come flying out if (when) the rubber coupling lets go.
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Maybe this diagram with the colored paths will help The red lines are the bolts to connect the driveshaft flange (AE) and engine to coupling plates (N). The blue lines indicate connection of (N) coupling plates to drive shaft WW). Green is engine screen (AM), drive hub (BE), engine pulley (K) to engine


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The rubber should sit between the two plates. As someone said above, the rubber was bonded from the factory to both plates. The ones I have owned had the rubber loose from one side just like yours. As I said above, the best thing to do is replace that part with a fiberglass flex disk.
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Guys Thank you for taking so much time to help For some reason i just could not get it in my head that the coupling is one piece. i was trying to figure it working as 2 pieces since when i took it apart it was in 2 pieces now that i know its one piece i got it figured out Hopefully i can help someone else some time Thank All ANdy
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