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3012 rototiller

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gr-made
$200 sounds like a fair price to me. Be sure to check the bearings and make sure they are in good shape. I have a Simplicity model W with a 32" tiller. It does a great job with the soil I have in my garden (sandy-loam).

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I have lined up a possible 36" tiller w/ extensions for my 3012v for about $200. If I can get my lift working should i go for it. How do these tillers work? If I do go for it should I run it with or without the extra 12" extensions? Also, will I need front weights or other? The soil here has a lot of clay.

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MPH
Tilled for the first time today with the model W tiller I mounted on my 725. the tiller is the same as a 32in type 2 best I can figure. Only got it and a few pieces of the W on an auction. Must agrtee with you Kent, they till as nice as my ole 6hp horse troybuilt but covers 10 inches more. MPH

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Kent
This seems a reasonable price if its in good shape, given that it comes complete with tine extensions. As far as whether to go for it -- that depends on how much you'd use it. I use mine only to prepare the garden in the spring and to till in the stuff in the fall.... Because they are so wide, they aren't very useful for cultivating unless you have lots of garden space and space your planting rows VERY wide. They work very well, and will till about 7" deep, maybe 8" in the right conditions. In my experience, if you keep the engine RPM up about 3/4 throttle, it will prepare just as "fluffy" a seedbed as a Troybilt or other rear tine tiller. I don't think the tine extensions would work very well when trying to "break sod" or in your hard clay. But, they would likely work OK once you've got the garden broken up and workded for the first time.... Then, the engine should handle the 42" tilling width (with extensions on) just fine, but it would likely take more passes to dig down to the same depth -- you'd get wider swath, but likely a shallower depth.... CAUTION: Make sure with your hydrolift that you use the "float" position on your lift. Since the tines turn much faster than the tractor's rear tires, it could run away with you (if you hit a hard spot, root or a rock) by picking the tractor's rear tires (your ONLY brakes) off the ground and running on the tiller's tines.... I have a 16" 5HP Troybilt Pony that I cultivate with, but I can prepare the garden or turn under the growth in the fall in just a fraction of the time using this larger tiller.... My two cents.... Kent

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palmrose2
Front weight is important when it comes to turning around at the end of the garden. I've got about 60# on the front of my homelite. I hang it from a rod I made that goes between the front deck mounting holes. Still doesn't turn great but much better. I think my 3112 is similar.

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MikeES
I have put many hours rototilling with my HB212 and my 3414. I have never used any front weight and do not see why you would. The only time you may need it is if you are trying to rototill and turn at the same time. I do not recommend this as you can easily break the tiller. Good Luck, Mike S.

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Kent
Simplicity recommended a front counterweight to help offset the weight of the tiller and make it easier to lift it... I haven't had any significant problems turning without front weights. With hydraulic lift on my B-210, it is obviously no problem lifting the tiller -- it'll lift the whole tractor... See the attached link for a sample of Simplicity's description...[A href='http://www.simpletractors.com/simplicity/new_in_1962/tiller.htm']http://www.simpletractors.com/simplicity/new_in_1962/tiller.htm[/a]

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