Newbie steering group questions.

[LabsRule 0]

I have some play in the front end and have some questions on replacement parts. The ball joints are not too bad, but I will probably replace them anyways. 1) Can I tighten up the tie rod connections? I see some spacers #31 on the parts diagram, will replacing these tighten up the connection? 2) Are both keys on the spindle replaceable? I can not get the front most one off the spindle and it appears worn thin on the bottom. 3) IS the washer between the front axle assembly and the spindle special or is it a common size? I think that is it for now, I need to get this tightened up, it is all over the place while I was mowing yesterday.

[John_RI 0]

It would help to know what tractor you are asking about sm01!

[LabsRule 0]

Oops, that would help a little. 1979 Soverign 7016H.

[LabsRule 0]

A little bump with one more question. Does the steering arm have a bushing in it or two halfs; one on each side of the keys? If the connection between the steering arm and the spindle still has play in it after I put new keys in and the washers that are missing, do I need a new steering arm?

[RayS 79]

here is a diagram. You can download the manual at the link below. http://www.simplicitymfg.com/manuals/

[LabsRule 0]

I looked at this diagram and have the O&M manual, which is how I came up with the questions of a bushing in the steering arm and the washer size that is at the top and bottom of the spindle. Since I don't see a number for a steering arm bushing I take it the steering arms are not rebuildable?

[RayS 79]

There is no bushings in part 16. It is held in place with a set screw and key. If 16 is not what you are refering to could you post the number you are talking about?

[LabsRule 0]

Yes Number 16. Are both keys replaceable or just the one? I got one out with ease but the other would not budge.

[RayS 79]

There are two keys number 17. They are replaceable.

[LabsRule 0]

Well I finally got around to replacing the front end parts and thought I would post the results and bring this topic to a close. I replaced the four spindle bushings, four washers, repacking the wheel bearings, and making a new draglink(rod that connects the two spindles) that has actual tierod ends instead of the factory bushings. And let me say it is a world of difference. It appeared that no maintenance was done in it's previous 30 years believe it or not. Both bottom washers were worn completely away and the corresponding flat part of the spindle was ground almost completely through. I had to fill weld each spindle then regrind and shape around the base of the spindle to get it back to where it should be. Even though the ball joints have some play, and the steering arm was worn a little from the lack of maintenance it steers and feels a 100 times better than it did. When I have an extra $85 I will get new ball joints or modify to accept off the shelf tie rods like I did the drage link and look for a like new steering arm. Thanks for all the help so far on this tractor. This site rocks :D

[goatfarmer 817]

I love it when a plan comes together.....

[Allis_HB112 0]

I had the same $42 ball joints in my HB112, double male 1/2-20 threads. I bought (2) Oregon brand 1/2-20 ball joints for $12 each. I believe they're typically a J.D. part, but I bought mine at my Simplicity dealer. I scrounged up (2) 1/2-20 x 2" S.H.C.S. and cut off the heads, giving me stronger than needed studs for the ball joints. Any 1/2-20 bolt or redi-rod will work. I cut the drag link at one end and took out 2 1/2", and made a plug to fit in the tubing and welded it back together. You'll need (4) 1/2-20 jam nuts to hold the studs in place. When I was done, I saved well over $50, and made life simple for the next time they need to be replaced. This is a modification that should be mandatory for all ball joint replacements using these ridiculous priced ball joints.
[img]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff261/rocknss04/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB112/DSCF2095.jpg[/img]

[LabsRule 0]

Hey Allis HB112, those look like the same balljoints/tierod ends I used to make my new tierod between my spindles, but I believe mine where 7/16x20 thread, I got mine at Tractor Supply Company (TSC) for $12 a pair. I will have to look for the 1/2x20 as I do not think TSC has them that big.

[Allis_HB112 0]

No they (TSC) don't, but like I said, try a mower dealer. I got mine from my Simplicity dealer, but I know that they are a J.D. item, also, but be cautious, there are some L.H. thread units for the J.D.'s. Look for (Oregon) brand. For the $60 I saved, this cut was a no brainer for me. Wayne

[LabsRule 0]

Found it, below is a web source for it and description of models and Cross reference data. Not to take away from local dealers/businesses, but my local Simp dealer is a joke and cant' steer away from them enough. Just my $0.02 [url]http://www.lawnmowerpartsdirect.com/p-6307-245043.aspx[/url]

quote:

---

Right Hand Ball Joint - Mtd/923-0179 1/2"-20 Specs: •Female Thread:1/2" -20 Rh •Male Thread:1/2" -20 Rh Fits Model: •John Deere: 110, 112, 140, 200 Series, 300, 312, 314, 316, 317 And 400 Fits OEM Model: •Mtd: 9230179, 7230179 •John Deere: Am100644, Am30168, Am32868 •Case: C44640, C12102 Replaces Competitor Part: •Bynorm: 080087 •Edgewater: 049025 •Esf: 192255 •Foley/Plp: 192255 •Green Meadow: Bj981 •Laser: L2254, 97110 •Prime Line: 707494 •Rotary: 2212 •Sunbelt: Sb2210

---

[Allis_HB112 0]

I'm not an MTD fan myself, but try Amazon also: MTD for $8.99 [url]http://www.amazon.com/Right-Hand-Ball-Joint-923-0179/dp/B001OK4LT6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1302223507&sr=1-6[/url] Oregon from $11.99 [url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0018U05L0/ref=sr_1_2_olp?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1302223507&sr=1-2&condition=new[/url] I start with Amazon for a baseline price guide, where possible.