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DMedal

onan cckb starter bolts

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DMedal
You don't have to be here long to know that to replace a starter on a PowrMax (4041) you have to pull the engine. After verifying that my issue wasn't due to voltage drop that's was left. I've now got the engine hanging over the tractor on a chain. But "pull the engine" is where the instructions leave off. Some more disassembly is required, however, as I can't find the starter bolts! Looking at the new starter they are on the back side of the starter (between the engine and starter) and look hard to get at. I have the repair manual for the CCKB but not an exploded parts diagram. With everthing in that area being the same color (fuzzy black, in dim light) it is hard to figure out how to access these bolts. It appears you do not get at them from the front of the engine. Must be from the flywheel side? I am SO CLOSE to being able to work this tractor again and really want to get the starter swapped quickly. thanks for any advice, especially drawings/pictures. You guys are great. -Don

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D-17_Dave
Remove the engine front sheet metal and remove the flywheel. Starter bolts go into the front of the engine. When you replace the starter be sure to shim the bendix to the flywheel for proper mesh.

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arnoldir
Hello Dmedal, I have a 720, and did not have to remove the flywheel when I rebuilt my starter. I only lifted the engine a few inches and slid it forward a bit, then pulled a few screws from the tin work and pried it out of the way to access the starter bolts. I cannot recall what type of wrench I used, and it may have been a box wrench cut down to only a few inches long, but I know I got it done with only minimal disassembly. My starter only need to have the mica cut back between the segments of the commutator as there was still some life left in the brushes. My other trick was using a ratchet strap to hold the clutch pedal down while I popped the drive belts off. Good luck with yours.

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DMedal
quote:
Originally posted by D-17_Dave
. When you replace the starter be sure to shim the bendix to the flywheel for proper mesh.
Last time I did this (shimming) was approximately 1973 and for some reason memory isn't as good as it was then. Am I shimming to get the proper distance in/out or alignment? Onan repair manual talks about measuring distance meshed/unmeshed, nothing about shimming to correct. Probably assumes any idiot would know. Don (not just any idiot)

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DMedal
Is the following info (in blue) right? I found it online, but you know that web info can be! If there is a starter noise when you crank the engine, remove one shim. (meaning, I think, that it isn't engaging enough) If there is a high-pitched whine after the engine starts, add a shim one at a time until the noise disappears. DO NOT use more than four shims. To add a shim, loosen the inside bolt, remove the outside bolt, add the shim and then retighten both bolts (meaning, I think, that it doesn't have enough clearance, and can't engage)

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