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If you were a Simplicity designed for a 10 HP


MrSteele

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If you were designed for a 10 HP, a 65 Landlord, that had the wrong 10 HP engine in it already, a newer model, that is, what would you rather have put back in you, the 10 HP, or the 16 that was put in you by the present owner? My Landlord started SMOKING badly a few mowings ago, so I assumed that it was either a stopped up crankcase breather or maybe a broken ring. Then it developed the hiccups, it ran, but it sounded like it was going to die, then caught up, and over again. Hmm, trash in the carb. That cleaned out, and it was some nasty gunk in it that came from the inside of the engine through the crankcase breather. It ran better, but still SMOKED like crazy. Deciding it was likely going to develop cancer if it wasn't looked at better, I pulled the head, and discovered it already had cancer. The top ring is in segments that can be seen looking down the bore. The question. It will take as much time and trouble to rework either engine, though the 10 was torn down, a glaze breaker ran through the bore, new rings purchased, valves ground, and so on, when I found a 16 that was running a year before I got it. I had to use the oil pan, flywheel, and point plate off the 10 to make the 16 operable on the Simplicity, or, to make the starter generator have a pulley and have a place to drain the oil. The points plate was simply missing for some reason or other. So, though I have 2 basically complete engines, I have only one that will work on the Simplicity. Since the rework is basically the same, less the present cost of rings, and maybe a piston for the 16, depending on how bad the ring lands are, which would you rework for the tractor? I am actually leaning towards the 10, though I know what the 16 will do. But, the tractor was designed for a 10, not a 16. The bigger engine does have advantages, I suppose, but the 10 will allow room for the light wires, and I want to make them operable again, the 16 sits against the back of the lights leaving no room for wiring. I do know, that if a piston is to be a part of the equation, the 10 goes back in, as money for toys is at a premium right now. What are your thoughts?
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What do you use it for??? Unless you're blowing snow or mowing tall weeds, the 10 hp should be fine. On the other hand, too much power is just right!!!
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Another kink in the equation. I am now the proud owner of a nearly new 23, and another 23 that is missing a few parts such as the shroud and coil and all appurtenances. Realizing that the 23 is only a 9 HP (I think), would it sit well on a Landlord 101. The nearly new 23 doesn't even have a ring gap on the top of the bore, carburetors on both are still tight at the throttle. The nearly new needs a condenser that will fit under the cover. I put one on to check fire that doesn't fit, and my local parts store is in the process of moving and his old stock hasn't made it to the new location as yet. Fire is good enough to run, I am certain, actually better than my 16, and many times better than the ZZ on my tractor, and it starts on the first pull. I am in no way restoring, but.
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Tall weeds just happen to be on the agenda from time to time, but nothing more than about 14-18 inches tall, but down here in the sunny south, everything seems to be thick. I do have an 11 hp on a 30" Dixon that rarely clogs in the same weeds. For really bad weeds, I use my walk-behind Yazoos. They'll cut weeds nearly waist high with no problem, just a lot of operator sweat
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My old round hood LL has been repowered to 16hp. Last night I moved my 18' boat with it, had to back it up a slight incline, at an idle the 16 lugged and chugged but didn't even think about stalling whereas the 23 mighta just up an puked! If the 16 has a blank area where the points should be, it might be new enough to have the magnatron ignition. I'd say go with the 16, if it's the same amount of $$ and work then you gain HP and torque.
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That was my first thought, as well, until I looked for parts today. The 16 has been bored to .030 oversize already, and everywhere I have even found parts for the engine, standard is all that is available now. So, unless I find someone with a set of rings laying around, or if the bore is the same as some automobile engine, I can't afford to bore and sleeve the engine back to standard, which can be done. Including parts, the bore, sleeve, and new piston is in the $160 range. The oil pan gasket required for the 10 or 16, can be made(the one on the 16 now is homemade), head gasket is still in good shape and can be reused, so I guess it will be the 10, though the 23 requires little but removing the bolted on tank and changing flywheels. If someone has parts for a .030 over 16 laying around..rings and or a piston?
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There is no replacement for displacement. I bumped my 12HP up to the 16 ( bored 20 over), and it is a beast....twice the tractor my ummmm green one is which is supposedly 23HP ....
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I haven't had enough problems with torque to complain with my 23D 9hp even on super thick grass. The weakness is power transmission to the blades. Ive had plenty of times where the blades stall before the engine gets near stall.
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Well, I started putting the 10 together last night, or, lapped the valves, washed the block and put the first coat of paint on it, checked the ring gap. The bore is still within range of standard, so I ran a glaze breaking hone through it to clean it up a bit. Still have to locate the shaft( I tore it down a few years ago, found the 16 and went on). Someone has put a new valve seat on the exhaust valve, but I will let a buddy with a valve machine grind the ex valve, intake lapped to a perfect seal. I have a set of mains somewhere.. The new 23 I have is an AB, not a D, does anyone know what the difference is? I also have a D but it is kinda ragged with no ignition
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Well, I started rebuilding the 10 after being unable to find rings for the piston in the 16 clearly marked .030. I am currently looking for a similar sized engine that I can buy rings for one piston for and hone to its size. However, after checking the bore specs for a 16, I find that the standard bore, and the bore at the top of the cylinder(not worn) are the same. It is worn beyond what Briggs says is in tolerance, so I am still unable to use it, but am now wondering what the piston marked .030 is out of. Interesting toys, these old engines!
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