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mike_sdak

16 hp briggs - oily head bolt and shroud removal

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mike_sdak
OK, Making some progress on the 917 engine swap - I swapped the S-G brackets for my newly-aquired "high mount" S-G brackets. While doing so, I thought I would remove the shroud for some cleaning. In order to remove the top bolt on the shroud, I had to remove the retro-fitted coil, which was secured to two head bolts (the two closest to the shroud). One of the head bolts was oily and smelled of oil/fuel. Is this normal, or do I have a blown head gasket or something like that? I removed all of the shroud bolts, but it seems as though you need to remove the outer "fan-booster" portion of the flywheel. If that's the case, I am assuming I need some sort of flywheel puller to get that off the shaft - Is that the case? I do have a two-jaw gear puller, but I might break something.... Thanks in advance,

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MrSteele
I don't know what you are calling a "fan-booster". If you are talking about the pulley for the starter generator, it is bolted on. The mount for the drive shaft might take a little tapping with the penetrating oil of your choice to loosen it, but it will usually come off without a puller. I am taking one down right now, as well, and so far, have had no need for a puller, even for the flywheel, though many or most might use one instead of the pry-tap method I usually use. Of course, I took care when I put it together to make certain there were no rough or rusty spots in the flywheel or on the shaft. As for your 2-jaw puller. It might work for the drive shaft mount, but never..never use such on a flywheel. Near the center of the flywheel should be 2-5/16 threaded holes for a Briggs puller, or you can make your own, or even use a cheap 3-4 leg puller with bolts for pulling vibration dampers on car engines. Use the 2 legs across from each other with long enough bolts to get into the flywheel and extend through the slots on the puller

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mike_sdak
I pulled that term from the parts breakdown, it sounded funny on my post, but anyway, yes it is the pulley the S-G turns. It also has notches for pulling with a rope. It is probably on there pretty good - I doubt it has been off much in its 37 year history. As for the head bolt - I am thinking I should pull the head to look at the situation? Or should I mount it and run it a while?

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MrSteele
It should be bolted on. Let me take a trip to my shop....OK. It is bolted on. Remove the screws from the screen, and you should be able to see the bolts under the screen. I also have the pulley that came off it originally. The pulley would not bolt up to the Simplicity drive shaft, so I used the original flywheel and pulley. The original pulley on the 16 has rope notches, 4 screws holding the screen on, and 2 center bolts holding the pulley on. The pulley at the shaft is about 3/16" thick, not enough for a 2 jaw puller. Your favorite penetrating oil, a blast of air from the compressor, a few taps at the center with a small hammer, and it should almost fall into your hands. The Simplicity pulley has the same screws holding the screen on, but once the screen is removed, there are 4 more bolts holding the pulley on. Again, penetrating oil, a few shots of air, a few taps near the center, and it should be in your hands. Do not use a 2 jaw puller, you run the risk of snapping the aluminum or potmetal or whatever the pulley is made of. There is not enough mass to keep the pulley from breaking with the force of a 2-jaw puller unless you are very careful, and I am not certain how careful you would have to be.

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mike_sdak
MrSteele, Thanks for that info. I was overthinking it - it did come off fairly easily. I have posted 2 pics of the side of the head where the oily head bolt is. I'm no expert - put does this look like a leaky gasket to the more knowledgeable folks??




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MrSteele
Yep, it does look like a leaky gasket. Most likely, when the coil was added, whoever did the work forgot to tighten that bolt as it should have been. I personally dislike the starter generator bracket attached to the head bolts, I actually dislike anything attached with head bolts besides the head, it allows for vibration at the attachment bolts that should not be present while the engine is running, though I know that if a bolt location is needed, and a head bolt is close by, even the manufacturer uses the head bolts. I just do not like the practice...call me an old grouch, most others do!

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