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larry8200

Wiring an Ammeter ?

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rpickle
Amp meters need to be "in-line". By in-line, that means a "hot" wire is cut in-half, with the 2 new ends, one each would go to the meter. W/o the print right in front of me I couldn't tell you exactly which wire to cut. Hope this helps. Rick

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Vassal
What Rick said....I can only add that the Ammeter should be the first and only thing other than perhaps a circuit breaker that should be installed between the power source (alternator/generator) and the main junction block (fuse panel, ignition switch etc). In this manner, ALL demand for the power source will be indicated on the Ammeter, not just SOME of the circuits. Like this:
Alt/Gen V V Circuit Breaker V V Ammeter V V Ignition Switch V V Circuits V V V V
Maybe this is for the 'perfect world' but it works for me:p

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Vassal
OK, so one more thing I can add... IMO, it is perfectly fine*(to add additional circuits to the factory set up by tapping off the downstream peg of the Ammeter. You must protect these circuits (fuse) and use a separate switch since this tap is usually also full time battery + so the ignition switch does not cut power to them (unless a relay is used). *Additional circuits must not exceed the rated capacity of the ammeter, wiring, power source etc.

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larry8200
Yes, that's what I thought, except, will that also properly show charge as well?... Looks like the regulator output wire goes to the ignition switch, so anywhere between the switch and solenoid should do it? Thanks

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Vassal
The ammeter will show charge/discharge/draw whatever you wish to call it, it's all the same in my world:D If you are adding an ammeter to an existing harness, I suggest it be placed ahead of ALL other devices. In other words, I would wire it in the main output wire from the power source. Naturally, this is not always practical or efficient, since you might be working with a bundled harness. So, I would just focus on having as many circuits monitored as possible.

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larry8200
The ammeter is off a Simplicity 17 GTH-L and shows 30 amps +/-, I assume that means it's capacity is 30 amps. Of course the starter won't go through it. The generator is rated 15 amps and the accessories (minus starter)have the original circuit breaker replaced by a 30 amp inline fuse, so that's fine. There is a + on one of the ammeters terminals, this would go towards the battery? Of course if I do it backwards it would just read backwards. Thanks, Larry

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Vassal
Your post cam in just before my example above. As for the 30 amp ammeter, it may not provide the most precise reading since the sweep scale is off -/+ 15amp vs. 30 amp, but it will still do it's thing. I don't think I've ever been able to read the back of an ammeterOO, so it's been a 50/50 crap shoot for mesm06

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Vassal
I just looked at my 3410S that I rewired for coil ignition and an ammeter last year. It is wired just like my example above, and to my surprise, I also used a 30 amp ammeter! FYI, on mine, the original batt feed wire in the molded ign switch connector is dark Green. (this is FROM the ammeter output TO the ignition switch)

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larry8200
quote:
Originally posted by Vassal
Your post cam in just before my example above. As for the 30 amp ammeter, it may not provide the most precise reading since the sweep scale is off -/+ 15amp vs. 30 amp, but it will still do it's thing. I don't think I've ever been able to read the back of an ammeterOO, so it's been a 50/50 crap shoot for mesm06
Right. I was able to see it in the picture from Joes Outdoor Power. OO :D

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larry8200
quote:
Originally posted by Vassal
I just looked at my 3410S that I rewired for coil ignition and an ammeter last year. It is wired just like my example above, and to my surprise, I also used a 30 amp ammeter! FYI, on mine, the original batt feed wire in the molded ign switch connector is dark Green. (this is FROM the ammeter output TO the ignition switch)
I think while I'm at it, (if there is room) I'm going to put a voltmeter in as well. The ammeter wont tell you if the batteries losing charge, and the voltmeter wont tell you if the jenny is only putting out 2 amps max. The ammeter also wont show voltage drop under load. Maybe I should just buy a new bulb for the idiot light, but what fun is that?

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BLT
Looks to me that you convinced yourself to install a voltmeter. You can get along without an ammeter if you go that route. Just connect the two ammeter wires and get the voltmeter sensing off the accessory side of the ignition switch and the VM will turn off when the switch is turned to the off position.

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larry8200
quote:
Originally posted by BLT
Looks to me that you convinced yourself to install a voltmeter. You can get along without an ammeter if you go that route. Just connect the two ammeter wires and get the voltmeter sensing off the accessory side of the ignition switch and the VM will turn off when the switch is turned to the off position.
It shows that I'm talking to myself? Thing is I have an ammeter...

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