UPDATE --- BRIGGS 10 HP,NO START !

[EZDUZIT]

Have a 1967 Landlord,it has a 10 hp briggs in her( model #243431 type 0123-01 code6710041 ).This is my dilemma,friday she died on me on the way to the shed,I thought she flooded out,not that easy.After fooling around for a little while I took a look at the points,they had a spasmatic spark,well now I have them all cleaned up and gap set to .20 still have a weak spark,will not even "burp". My question is WHAT AM I DOING WRONG???? It has a simple ignition swith and a push start button.Is there something else I need to check ? I do get a jolt if I put one finger on the spark plug and push the starter button. Can anyone give this dope any information on anything else to check,I know the switch is good,and she is getting good fuel flow. Thank You, Pete.

[AC_B-1Novice]

Pete.. don't know if this will help for I'm no mechanic but here is something I read not long ago. It may be a starting point. Larry Points ignition Disconnect the stop wire from the points at its cut out post(usually with the throttle bracketry). Repeat the spark test. If there is still no spark then the problem is either with the points/condenser set or the coil. The points can be replaced but the long term repair would be to replace the old coil with a new electronic ignition armature. On no account consider cleaning the points, this is at best a very short term solution. If after disconnecting the stop wire a good spark returns, the problem is with the stop system.

[rsnik]

Pete, I am just saying, but I would start with a compression check. This rules out issues with the rings, valves, head gasket etc. Buy a new spark plug, it's cheap and I have had actually had that solve the problem. If it is the points and condenser you are looking at cutting your wallet as I used to have to buy a half dozen new condensers to find a good one. Points and condensers are expensive. You might consider a points eliminator. Just google it and you will find them. I paid $11.95 for the last one I bought. It's just a little metal chip with wire pig tails. You leave the existing points and condenser in place to avoid oil leaks and clip the wires and connect the wires per the instructions. Very quick and easy. Before doing this you might also want to check your kill wire on your ignition switch. Your ignition switch does not turn "on" anything, it breaks the circuit on the kill wire. If your kill wire has a crack or bare spot which allows the kill wire to ground out, your ignition is "off" regardless of whether you turn the key on or off.

[EZDUZIT]

UPDATE,I now have spark and fuel,not a real "bright spark,but spark.Still no start !!.Kinda weird ,huh ?

[xenon172]

Possibly the flywheel key or maybe a compression problem. Run a compression test to eliminate that problem

[PGL]

Are you getting good fuel flow through the carb or just to it? Maybe dirt in the carb or sticking float. Maybe check with some gas directly in the intake.

[dentwizz]

Check your spark plug gap. I ran around the ringer on that for quite a while with the module. The add on, not the briggs unit. The electronic mini module(atom module) is very sensitive to the gap induced timing. Start with .018 gap and try again. Tighter is more advanced, wider is retarded. Normal .030 gap is way too retarded to start normally. Be sure the plug is new also. Every little bit counts.

[3314WV]

what have you done that causes you to now have spark ? my first stop would be condenser and plug

[SACK]

I know the electronic ignition coil from an Intek 17hp fits and works on a Briggs 11hp, IDK if it's the same size flywheel as a 10hp though...

[MrSteele]

Rare, but, before it died the last time, did it backfire? If so, you may have sheared the flywheel key. You will have spark, but if the key is damaged only a tiny bit, it will be out of time and will never start, won't even act like it might start. A loose flywheel will also allow a key to shear.

[Willy]

The best way to check for spark is have one of the neighbour kids to hold the spark plug wire while you crank it over.If his eyes go crossed you have a weak spark if he flops over on his back and kicks and twitches you will know your spark is good and strong. I hope this helps.^

[thudpucker]

Your gonna hate to see this. If you have the original Mag and wiring, inside the Cowl they had an insulated post to connect the Wire to the points, and also the grounding wire that shut off the Mag. Over years the insulation on that post would disintegrate and the Points would be grounded. The ugly part is this: That stud is inside the Cowl. You have to pull the motor to get to it. I replaced my whole Mag with the Integretate Electronic Mag. $45 from my local dealer. Here's a photo of what you might be dealing with; [IMG]http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g121/groaner/failedinsulatedstud-1.jpg[/IMG]

[A440]

I am dealing with a no spark at the plug and very very weak spark from the plug wire to a ground. I was thinking that the above picture might be my problem, grounded out ignition wire. How do in the world do you pull the motor out of the tractor?