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Boney

Blade Sharpening Q

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Boney
I sharpen my blades by hand and leave about a 1/8" rounded edged on the cutting edge. My friend had a good argument that I hand no answer against. He said that he sharpens his blade as sharp as a knife. I said you shouldn't do that as they will dull faster from rocks, sticks ect. He looked at me like I had three heads and said get off your lazy butt and pick up the stuff, the sharper blades are better for the grass. I had no rebuttal standing there clueless. Am I wrong here or should a person with an establish clear lawn sharpen the blades as sharp as a knife ? Thanks for any input.

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larry8200
Let me get this straight, we're talking a mower deck and not a roto-tiller. For breaking up sod, I like tiller blades sharper than what you are doing! You dont have to worry about dulling your blades if they're dull to start with. Your mower blades can not be to sharp! The first step to a nice lawn is a properly maintained deck with sharp blades. I sharpen my blades 4-5 times a year for my 1.5 acres. I sharpen my blades BEFORE they are dull and only take a little off them to regain their edge. And yes they are sharp as a knife. If your hitting rocks, pick them up, dig them out, do what it takes. Learn how to sharpen your blades, keep your deck clean and your lawn will love you, and so will your mower

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TomSchmit
Dull blade tear the blade of grass, leaving bruised tissue that goes brown and looks bad and stresses the plant. You want a clean cut, which comes from a sharp blade. That is why reel mowers are used on fine turf (golf gourses). The cut the grass like a scissors, a nice clean sharp cut that looks better than a rotary blade cut. Sometime I am going to find an old reel mower that will fit behind or under one of my tractors! Tom

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TimJr
Blades do not need to be razor sharp - check out any manufacturers instructions for resharpening, or even look at any manufacturers new blades - none are razor sharp. 2 reasons I know of - 1) they will dull quickly anyway, and 2) depending on how that edge is left, it will be jagged and tear the grass and leave it tattered similiar to how a dull butterknife blade does. The goal is to cut the grass, not beat it down. The most important factors in resharpening are to keep them touched up, don't hog into them once a year. Follow the factory bevel. Keep the very end of the cutting edge square to the end of the blade, and the cutting edge parallel to the backside of the blade. The last two tips help to minimize the chance of leaving standing grass when turning - they can affect the blade overlap. Tim

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Vassal
quote:
Originally posted by TimJr
Blades do not need to be razor sharp - check out any manufacturers instructions for resharpening, or even look at any manufacturers new blades - none are razor sharp. 2 reasons I know of - 1) they will dull quickly anyway, and 2) depending on how that edge is left, it will be jagged and tear the grass and leave it tattered similiar to how a dull butterknife blade does. The goal is to cut the grass, not beat it down. The most important factors in resharpening are to keep them touched up, don't hog into them once a year. Follow the factory bevel. Keep the very end of the cutting edge square to the end of the blade, and the cutting edge parallel to the backside of the blade. The last two tips help to minimize the chance of leaving standing grass when turning - they can affect the blade overlap. Tim
That right there should be a sticky!

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mendon-chalmers
I assume they are not sharp from the factory because of consumer safety so the customer cant sew because he got cut getting the blades from the box. (I cant look out for myself the manufacturer has to do it for me KRAP!!!)I get mine sharp.

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