Bull_79 0 Report post Posted June 20, 2010 Well I am going to start this thread and when I have a question for you all I'll just post it in here. I love the forums you get tons of help. Well the first question I am getting ready to remove the motor,do I just reach in that hole and take off the bolts to the rear drive? I have made alot of progress yesterday everything is off just need to get the motor out. And if anyone has any tips,tricks,or just ways to make things go easier feel free to chime in. THANKS Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
goatfarmer 471 Report post Posted June 20, 2010 There should be 2 bolts that hold the driveshaft to the engine. Don't lose any spacers, etc. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bull_79 0 Report post Posted June 20, 2010 Yeah this thing is comming apart like a puzzle,now I am going to steam clean it to make the rest of the job easier. All the external stuff is off I just need to get a puller to get the stearing wheel off so I can pull the gauge assembly off. Man is this thing well built and every bolt came off with ease knock on wood. Every bolt for except one on the left rear fender is original,you can tell buy the nuts and boltheads. I will post some pictures soon crk8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bull_79 0 Report post Posted June 23, 2010 Motors comming out tomorrow and then out back for a pressure wash. I am going to get the whole thing sodablasted,I haven't had anything sodablasted before but they say it's the way to go it dissolves with water so no worry about sand in bearings and cracks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowhunt4life 214 Report post Posted June 23, 2010 Sodablasting that is a new one for me. I like the concept though. Sand and moving parts are a bad combination. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shovelhead 4 Report post Posted June 23, 2010 Is sodablasting expensive ? Have seen it on TV,..nobody around here does it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bull_79 0 Report post Posted June 23, 2010 Guy said $125 an hour and should take about 1 hour to do my tractor and deck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FTG-B10 0 Report post Posted June 24, 2010 Sounds really interesting, how much does sand blasting run per hour vs. the $125 for soda blasting?, I'm planning on getting a b10 soon, and I might need to have it cleaned good so I can paint it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bull_79 0 Report post Posted June 24, 2010 Sandblasting around where I live is about the same price maybe a little less but leaves a mess and gets into everything. Sodablasting is a new thing around my area and alot of people are going with this and it's safe on glass. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Storm7012 0 Report post Posted June 25, 2010 I don't think I'd let the BGB and tranny be blasted. Guy next door just had his 48' Chevy blasted, It makes a mess and gets everywhere..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bull_79 0 Report post Posted June 25, 2010 That's where soda blasting is the way to go,it uses like baking soda that is water soluable and disolves. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dave45056 8 Report post Posted June 28, 2010 People also blast with dry ice. Not sure of the cost, but it leaves only the stuff you blasted off behind. There is a place near me called coldjet which does it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dentwizz 1 Report post Posted June 28, 2010 I just use a wire brush in an angle grinder followed by a body shop air-sander with 80 grit, then 220 grit. On sheet metal you have to watch out as blasting can warp things. The wire is the way to go when you have bearings and shafts around since it does not project anything into the seals. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bull_79 0 Report post Posted July 2, 2010 I am looking for a gas cap fuel gauge but can't find one on ebay,the threads measure 1 1/2" and is like 6 1/2" deep tank. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dentwizz 1 Report post Posted July 2, 2010 They still sell them new from a Briggs/Simp Dealer. $13 bucks usually. Make sure you use the part number listed in the manual as there are a couple lengths. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bull_79 0 Report post Posted July 3, 2010 Thanks,I'll check into that I am going to the local dealer anyhow. Taking this thing apart was so easy no stubborn bolts or hard to get to ones either. I just hope I remember how everything goes back together ;-) . If not I am sure everyone on here would be more then happy to help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AC_B-1Novice 0 Report post Posted July 4, 2010 I try to take close up pictures of everything I touch because I would never remember how to put it back together again. I forgot once and still don't know how to put this pulley system back together. sm02 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bull_79 0 Report post Posted July 4, 2010 Yeah I am taking a ton of pictures,that does help alot in the reassembly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AC_B-1Novice 0 Report post Posted July 5, 2010 Brad...I hope you will post the pictures and the tractor # somewhere on the site and let everyone know when you do it. It helps a lot of people to see a complete breakdown and restore project with closeups. I sure would like seeing it and I'm sure others would also. larry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bull_79 0 Report post Posted July 5, 2010 The MFG# is 990314 Motor Is Briggs Model#23D Type 0129 01 S/N 13128 Here's a slideshow of my build so far. http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww337/bcarbaugh/?action=view¤t=0a9e84ba.pbw Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bull_79 0 Report post Posted July 9, 2010 Alright I am ready to start spraying some of the small parts,what is the correct color and where can I get a good rattle can paint? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites