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kuchi36

62XX electrical problems

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kuchi36
Can anyone offer me some advice here...I have a 6216 that will not "key" start. If I jump the battery to the starter (with key in "on" position) it will fire right up. I thought that it might be either the neutral or PTO safety switches. So I "jumped" both of them with some wire...nothing doing with the key yet. I have 12v across the terminals of the distro box under the seat where the main + battery connects to. I have tried a different ignition switch from a different Simp. I am stumped... Where should I look next? Thanks, Tim

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dirtmister16
the above suggestions, and do you get a click with the solenoid when you try the key? if not double check battery voltage and if good. probably your solenoid is bad. just my two cents, but in my experience it seems to happen more then not. also before doing all of that, make sure all of the saftey switches are present, working or bypassed to be sure they are not the problem.

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lampoulos
I would start by putting 12V across the signal terminals of your starter relay. If the engine cranks you'll know you have an issue with the safety and ignition systems. If it doesn't click your relay is bad (to be more certain check for continuity across the main terminals on top while activating the solenoid. If it clicks, and doesn't start you have a starter problem (but you've already determined that by putting 12v dircectly to the starter). To test the ignition switch simply make sure you're getting 12v shared between the "B" and "S" terminals. If you're not getting power to the "B" terminal your ammeter is problably unplugged (power comes from the battery to the ignition switch through the ammeter). If you're putting power through the "B" terminal to the "S" then you've most certainly got an issue with a safety relay. Those you can narrow down with a good jumper wire bypassing each, one at a time until the engine starts. The only other possibility is that the main plug (joins the upper and lower harnesses). Test that by testing continuity on either side. I hope this helps. I just went through my 6218 so the information I found is still pretty fresh.

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lampoulos
I just read your posting again and remembered you're using an ignition switch from another tractor. Use the original for troubleshooting or it could be misleading. Learned that one the hard way.

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kuchi36
Well, couldn't figure out the issue, while driving I noticed that the key would arc a spark to a bolt on under it when they would touch, so I replaced the ignition switch ($40). Put that in and it worked for one crank, then nothing. So I just wired in a new "start" circuit with a push button and called it a day. Thanks for the suggestions. Tim

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AC_B-1Novice
I am NOT very knowledgeable about these tractors but one thing seems certain to me. You still have a problem lurking out there. Don't give up till you find it because it may do something you don't want done. There are a lot of experienced people here and I would think they can help you through this and an unknown problem could be a serious problem for your tractor or even your safety. A person can put out a warning light by cutting the wire to it but the danger is still there. Good luck but don't give in. larry

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lampoulos
You've got a shorted out wire somewhere. If you're arcing across the key and the bolt that holds the top tank down you've problably got something laying across the two terminals of the ammeter. Did you ever take it out to look at it? The metal bracket you're refering to is isolated between the top and bottom plastic housings of the dash. It's not touching the frame to be grounded. Even the steering column uses plastic bushings which would further isolate it. I'd take the time to remove the top dash housing off and take a look at the wiring. I'll bet you'll find your problem there. Also check the plug from between the upper and lower harnesses for continuity or a broken peice of plastic between the terminals.

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