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gregnorth

4041 powermax

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gregnorth
one of the little metal plates inside the flywheel came loose. its a little bent so i was thinking of filling in the space with construction adhesive just to keep the magnet in there. sand it flat and call it good. i don't think the weight difference would be noticable. luckily my stator didn't get hurt. i'd like to get a new/ used flywheel but their hard to find in good condition. if anyone has one let me know. later, greg

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D-17_Dave
One of those metal plates...... Do you mean a magnet? If so them I'd question the integrity of the adhesive on the rest of them. Also the lose of a magnet will adversly affect the charging circut of the engine. It will need to go back in in the correct polarity it came out too. I probably have a flywheel, but the adhesive may be in the same shape as the one you have now.

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gregnorth
actually mine has a 20 amp system with 12 little metal plates with beveled edges and a metal framework around them and all pressed together with magnets behind them. i didn't know when i bought my tractor that the stator was ripped loose from the gear cover and it was just going around with the flywheel. a little locktite on the bolts would have been a good idea. needless to say it didn't do the magnetic part of the flywheel any good. some of the framework around the plates got dinged up and the hole assembly moved out of the flywheel about 1/8". i tapped it back in and caulked it in as best i could. one plate was loose and i caulked it in and its still holding. i guess i missed this one. anyway, it is what it is. if yours is the same one, e-mail some picks and thanks for the response. later,greg

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gregnorth
ok, got it back together. the guy who is not doing any more work on my tractor put the rear seal in the gear cover in too far and the crank just wore through it. walla! big oil leak. i also repaired my flywheel with j.b. weld and gave it a new paint job. it looks great and time will tell. also found out why my stator wasn't charging, one of the wires in the multi plug down beside the motor was pulled out of the plug. i don't know who did that but ill blame that on him too, what the heck. i checked it with my meter and its reading 15 volts at 2400 rpm. close enough. later, greg

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gregnorth
does anyone know who makes a tachometer for a 2 cylinder motor? most of the ones i see advertised are for 4,6,or8 cylinder. i'd like to put one on my 4041. i bought a cheap digital one but i think i need something a little more precise with a needle. any ideas? thanks greg

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metaldr
I don't know if you need one that mounts on the tractor or not but I bought a non-contact electronic tach for around $30 and am very happy with it. I put a small square of reflective tape on the front clutch of my 9020 and it has stayed there for a year. Just point the tach at the spinning clutch and it will give you a readout within a few seconds. I can't say for sure how accurate it is but it seem pretty close. You can use this tach on just about anything that rotates so it pretty handy to have around. Bruce

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powermax_paul
Greg, Glad to hear you went with JB Weld instead of construction adhesive. I hope you cleaned the area with a good solvent before using the JB Weld to make sure it sticks.Good to hear it's putting out a charge too. Is the ammeter on the dash showing that it is recharging after you start the tractor? Usually starting runs the battery down a little anyway. Paul

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gregnorth
yes paul. the amp meter is slightly to the + side and i checked the battery terminals at different rpms and it always returns to 15 volts. so i guess its charging like its suppose to. later, greg.

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