Hood Decals from clickitandstickit

[larry8200 0]

Nice price, $36.75, not easy to apply, but worth it.

[SimplyAC 0]

I was wondering how their quality was. I'm thinking about ordering some decals from him for the 6211 project. Mike sm06

[OrangeMetalGuy 2]

That's Corey, he has made all of mine. I use a body-fill applicator to apply them... I only unpeel the end, then slowly move the applicator down the decal as I pull off the backing. His are very thick and well-made.

[SimplyAC 0]

quote:

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Originally posted by OrangeMetalGuy
That's Corey, he has made all of mine. I use a body-fill applicator to apply them... I only unpeel the end, then slowly move the applicator down the decal as I pull off the backing. His are very thick and well-made.

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Hey Scott! Thanks for the info. Sounds like his stuff is good quality! dOd Mike sm06

[larry8200 0]

Corey at www.clickitandstickit,com is great. He made these to my specs to match the original. Of course he nade 10 sets for sale. I applied using the tape hinge dry method because they stck better. For some reason the overlay was sticking to the film better than the film was sticking to the paint. But I got it right and they're great. Bugged the heck out of Corey...:) He's going to use some of my pics in his vintage section.

[SimplyAC 0]

Thanks for the info Larry! Its always like to talk to people who use the product. Mike sm06

[JimH 1]

I didn't know Corey changed the name of his business. Yes indeed, he is great to work with. He makes an excellent quality product.

[larry8200 0]

quote:

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Originally posted by JimH
I didn't know Corey changed the name of his business. Yes indeed, he is great to work with. He makes an excellent quality product.

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He still has FS Graphics on eBay, but appears to be moving away from that.

[JohnMBerst 36]

I have meet him, and a great guy. Likes the tractor stories, and the people behind them. Dropped my seat pan off for new decals, and he did a great job. Showed me some of his "decal stock", and hopes to continue to grow this part of his business. Once I get my stuff together, have a hood for him to work on. Guess I'm lucky he is only about 15 minutes away.

[HubbardRA 11]

To apply decals it is easier if you mix up a solution of 1/2 dishwashing liquid and 1/2 water. Coat both the back of the decal and the sheetmetal where the decal will be placed. Make the sheetmetal very wet and immediately apply the decal. This gives several minutes to move the decal around to the right position and to squeegie out the the wrinkles and bubbles. Hopes this helps, because that is the way I do it.

[RayS 65]

He made these and several other sets. Excellent workmanship. I apply as Rod described.

[dentwizz 1]

Cool to know he has a home page now. I even had him do custom decals on my racing mountain bike last month. 8D

[larry8200 0]

quote:

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Originally posted by HubbardRA
To apply decals it is easier if you mix up a solution of 1/2 dishwashing liquid and 1/2 water. Coat both the back of the decal and the sheetmetal where the decal will be placed. Make the sheetmetal very wet and immediately apply the decal. This gives several minutes to move the decal around to the right position and to squeegie out the the wrinkles and bubbles. Hopes this helps, because that is the way I do it.

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According to Corey they stick better when applied dry. I positioned the decals flawlessly with the tape hinge method and only ran into trouble removing the clear vinyl overlay. Applied dry, the vinyl overlay was stuck to the decal much better than the decal to the hood. If I had done the wet method I never would have got the overlay off with the decal in place. Corey was great throughout with advice and assurances he would send replacements, no problem. That was not necassary however.

[HubbardRA 11]

I was also told to use the soap by people who do this professionally. I have never had one come loose, and they actually appear to stick better with the soap. You have to take the decal off the overlay to use the soap method. The overlay does allow large multiple decal set to be installed much easier than one-by-one like I do it. I have also watched professionals ruin their own decals while using the dry method. When using the dry method it is necessary to rub the overlay directly over the decals with a heavy rubber squeegie or a round wooden dowel to make it release from the decal. It is similar to using a rub-off transfer.

[larry8200 0]

As they say alls well that ends well. The decals were completely done on Monday before I made the post. Corey recomended the dry method if you had the confidence, as it makes for better adhesion, though the wet method is easier. I placed them perfect with his tape hinge method, but for some reason the decal itself was not adhereing well to the paint. If I do it again I'll probably use the dry method again, even though 3M say you can apply them wet. Thanks for the advice, Larry

[dentwizz 1]

I have done wet and dry and I prefer wet for the multi letter ones. It should be said that the wet method for me is slower because I let the decal "set" with the application film in place after it is on the machine for a while before I peel it off to finish. I have had less issues with bubbles doing it wet also.

[OrangeMetalGuy 2]

I don't even bother removing the clear overlay.. IMHO it protects the decal underneath and you can hardly tell it's even there.

[4xbill 2]

What is the "tape hinge method"?