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BlackHawk99

Broadmoor 1692776 loss of power when hot

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BlackHawk99
What a great resource for these old tractors! I'm glad I stumbled upon your site! Hopefully someone can help me. I have a Broadmoor 16HP V-twin Hydro, model number 1692776. Whenever the mower gets hot it has a serious loss of hyrdostatic power. Almost to the point where it won't move forward or backward. Any ideas on what the issue is? The transaxle seems to be a sealed unit, although the unit is wet so it must be leaking from somewhere.

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RayS
You can download the operator and parts manuals at the link below. The operators manual should beable to tell whether or not you can add fluid. http://www.simplicitymfg.com/manuals/ http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=jgEAGP_dqI0tG9Eyc7mRgtLvBCd6

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BlackHawk99
Ya, I have the manual already. The manual and dealer have both confirmed it's a sealed unit. Are these transaxles relatively easy to rebuild on a bench-top? I'm no stranger to wrenching on tractors, cars, etc.

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Al
Hi, This tractor has a Hydro-Gear 312-0800 series transmission. Normally it is a "sealed unit". On the bottom on the right side is a little rectangular hole with about three metal tabs in it. This the brake and is a stack of disks. These are very good brakes, but tend to rust and drag. The first thing you should do is spray penetrating oil up in the opening and get it well lubed. Dragging brakes may be a major part of your problem. Set the governor on the engine at 3600 instead of 3400. Check that the belt isn't slipping. If it is leaking oil, it will need oil added. It is not uncommon for these units to get internal leakage in the pump and have the symptoms you have. Often the dragging brake causes the oil to overheat. When the oil gets hot it gets thin. Often the tranny can get some years coaxed out of it by taking it out and turning it upside down and draining it. It comes with 20w-50 oil, but replacing it with 20W-50 full synthetic will help as it doesn't thin out nearly as much. A 30w-? full synthetic could be better. In Hydro-Gear school, the instructor said Synthetic would make the tranny last a lot longer than regular oil. We ask why they didn't use it when new, and the reply was the OEM's didn't want to pay the added cost. If the axles are leaking, the seals are internal near the differential. There are 2 seals in the outer end of each axle and they are to keep the dirt and water out. Inboard from them the cavity around the axle has a special "Rykon" grease to also block the water path to the axle seal at the inner bearing. The transmission should be filled to an inch of the top. Oil can be added in the tractor, but it is almost easier to drop the tranny. Also it is very hard to get all of the dirt cleaned up with it in the tractor. Even the smallest amount of dirt is very destructive to any hydraulic application. The brakes should be lubed every 3 to 6 months. If the transmission has to come out because of internal pump leakage, advise and I will try to guide you through the more difficult parts. I looked and thought I might have a video I could loan you, but I don't have one for this unit. Good luck, Al Eden

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BlackHawk99
Wow! Excellent information! Thank you very much for the detailed response. What I'll do is hold off until fall/winter when the mowing season is over and simply remove the transmission from the tractor. I'll then drain the fluid like you suggested and replace it with synthetic and follow your recommendations. I'll also check into replacing those seals since they seem to be bad. I'll also do a thorough cleaning. If you have the video, please let me know. Even if it's not the same model it will be handy to review. Thanks again!

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donmoore1904
quote:
Originally posted by BlackHawk99
What I'll do is hold off until fall/winter when the mowing season is over
Can you wait that long? Originally you said that the tractor has a serious loss of power when it gets hot.

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BlackHawk99
It does have a major loss of power when it gets hot. But what I've been doing is mowing my .5 acre lot in two instances. So, I'll do part of it, give the mower an hour break or so, then finish up. It really helps with retaining power. We only have about six weeks left of mowing left for this season.

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