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larry8200

Carlisle Turf Master II opinions?

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larry8200
I'm replacing the front 16 X 6.5-8 tires on my 74 3416H sometime before winter. I run a 42" snow thrower quite a bit (if there's snow). I can get Carlisle Turf Master II's locally for $23 each. They're 2 ply. I'm wondering if the price is the only sweet thing about them.

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RickS
Larry, I have run the standard turf lawn tire, sno-hogs, and AG's (reversed for steering). I cannot say I saw much of a difference between the sno-hogs and AG, but that was on two different tractors (7000 and a 7100 series). The 7000 had the sno-hogs and the 7100 had the AG's. That said I did notice a big difference between the turf tire and the sno-hogs. The sno-hogs did not slide as much as the turf tires did. I ran the turf tires and sno-hogs on the same tractor (7000 series). I ran the 7000 with sno-hogs year round. Blowing snow in the winter and cutting the grass in the summer. Never had any trouble with tearing up the grass with the sno-hogs. In fact I slide even less on the grass with the sno-hogs than the turf tires. I have cut my grass once or twice with the AG's tires and did not tear the grass up. Others I know use the tri-ribs for plowing or blowing snow and liked them. I don't think the tri-ribs tore up the grass. I think the users reported the tractor turned sharper and the steering was easier. I know this did not answer your question, but instead gives you more options. I guess what I am saying is don't limit yourself to just turf tires unless it is the look you are going for. Hope I did not confuse you any. Rick........

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larry8200
Price, unfortunatly, is a consideration, but I want to make the best choice I can as the tractor's gonna be on the job for years... It has the original turf masters on the front still, and new Multi-Tracs on the back, still needs chains, and anything but the most gradual turn requires lifting the blower slightly to put weight on the front tires. Anything is going to be a big improvement over the old nearly bald turfs for a year or two. The reason I'm changing them is they are so weather-checked it's hard to believe they hold air without tubes, and I dont want to be forced to swap them when its -10. I also dont want a tire that will blow when I lift the thrower caked with 200 pounds of slush...

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RickS
Larry, If price is a consideration I would rule out the AG and the tri-ribs, but would still look into the sno-hog tires. These tires are generally used on walk behind snow-blowers. I did not have trouble turning with the sno-hogs and the blower on the front. As for a price I don't remember, I purchased them several years ago. As for traction the snow and slush, even with my 7100 and four AG's I still use chains and weights in the winter. Without chains I could not do my driveway. While the hill is not steep, any ice and I cannot get up it without chains. Rick........

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larry8200
Weights always, plus chains in winter. Unless I want to push! From looking at Carlisle's web site, I was looking at "Turf Saver II" not "Turf MAster II" and they're rated for 438 lb./piece. I would not be surprised if there was close to that with the slush packed thrower raised. And ther's the BIG 270 lb. weight that goes on th seat. :)

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305SS
Larry What ever you get make sure it is a 4 ply. My opinion and that being that opinion is that todays 4 ply is closer to yesterdays 2 ply. They will stand up to punctures better.

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larry8200
quote:
Originally posted by 305SS
Larry What ever you get make sure it is a 4 ply. My opinion and that being that opinion is that todays 4 ply is closer to yesterdays 2 ply. They will stand up to punctures better.
The point to this being I dont want any unexpected failure, I have to agree. I doulbt there is anything on the market today made like the originals

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TomSchmit
The fact is that "turf tires" of any brand/type are not very good in the snow and ice. My solution: change out the wheel/tire. I run wide turf tires in summer, narrow tri-ribs in winter. Just pop off the dust cap, loosen the ring (changed to use square head set screw instead of allen wrench style) and put on the new wheel. I leave the inside bearing in place, have an outer bearing in every wheel so I don't get too greasy. Takes about 30 seconds to change each wheel. I do the same with rear wheels ... a lot easier to change wheels that to put on tire chains, in my opinion. On Broadmoors, you can even leave the weight in place!. Just what you gotta do to deal with big winter snow. Some years, you do all the work just to plow 3 or 4 times. Then the next year you are practically buried alive! Tom in Milwaukee

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larry8200
quote:
Originally posted by TomSchmit
The fact is that "turf tires" of any brand/type are not very good in the snow and ice. My solution: change out the wheel/tire. I run wide turf tires in summer, narrow tri-ribs in winter. Just pop off the dust cap, loosen the ring (changed to use square head set screw instead of allen wrench style) and put on the new wheel. I leave the inside bearing in place, have an outer bearing in every wheel so I don't get too greasy. Takes about 30 seconds to change each wheel. I do the same with rear wheels ... a lot easier to change wheels that to put on tire chains, in my opinion. On Broadmoors, you can even leave the weight in place!. Just what you gotta do to deal with big winter snow. Some years, you do all the work just to plow 3 or 4 times. Then the next year you are practically buried alive! Tom in Milwaukee
And thats truth! if I find some spare rims, I still have to replace the front tires I have, though.

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