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Dadsy98

AC 300/400 Arbors

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Dadsy98
My new/old 312 has a 42" mowing deck with alot of noise when I engage the blades. One arbor has very noticable side play and the other two are sure to follow suit. The deck does a fine job cutting right now. But, I'm sure I'll have to rebuild/replace the arbors. Any thoughts on the procedures? I am told that parts other than bearings might be hard to find. I currently have available a 10 LB sledge hammer and a six pack of my favorite beverage. Would I need anything else ? Wil 10 LB do the job or should I get a twelve pack? You folks know the answers I'm sure !!! Steve Plymouth, Indiana

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palmrose2
I don't recall any problems changing the bearings on my 1973 Homelite deck. I think the decks are similar. My suggestion is that you change the bearings before you use it again. If you don't you may end up destroying one of your arbors. BTW I took out my bearings and carried one into my local Simp dealer to see if he had them. I didn't even have a chance to tell him what it was when he said "You want all three of those deck bearings ?" .

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Guest
I would definetly replace all three immediately. They are not difficult to get out. Loosen the set screws in each pulley and pry them off the shafts, being carefull not to loose the square keys. Check the keyways in your pulleys to make sure they are still "square" and not "rounded out". If they are, replace pulleys also. The old shafts should peen out easily with your hammer. The outside shafts are the same part#, the center shaft is longer and accomodates two pulleys. Make sure you put it back together "by the book" as far as pulley and spacer positions on the shaft. If you bought it used, sometimes people unintentially have put them back together incorrectly on earlier repairs. They must be correct so your deck drive and blade belts are lined up properly. Good luck! Marion W. Kerr

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Dadsy98
there is a business in Goshen, IN that hasn't blinked an eye when I say Allis - Chalmers. I'll try them first. I mean no disrespect to Sandy Lakes ! You folks are the best ! I do like to patronize the locals though...

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bobjack
Dadsy98, All the deck bearings I've had were one piece ball bearing assemblies, meaning that the inner and outer races were assembled with balls inside and could not be disassembled without destroying the brg. Unless you have tapered roller bearings, I wouldn't think you have any races to remove unless your ball bearings were so shot that they came apart!! I drive races out and into front hubs with brass punches and a hammer, tapping on opposite sides (so as not to cock and wedge the race) like torqing a head. Brass won't chew up the bores or ruin new races. New deck bearings (when you really need them and don't have a loud muffler) get rid of a lot of general noise that you don't recognize as coming from the deck. True for me, anyway!! Be sure and grease or rebuild your tensioner if it has a lot of play in it -- new bushings and maybe shaft or whole new assy. If you go all new bearings and cherry out the tensioner and don't wash your deck or let it sit out in the weather, and grease the tensioner once a year, you'll probably get 10 to 20 years out of it before a new rebuild. Good Luck bobjack ps -- pay attention to post 11646 ( From: marionwcueball@cs.com AKA Marion W. Kerr ) above about keys, keyways, and stack-up.

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jlasater
Wow! Nice to know I bought a good tractor (AC716H). The bearings for my old Ford LT110 are $17+ each and the three bad mower deck shafts ran $80 a piece. That's why I bought the AC, so I didn't have to blow the money on the Ford for a while.[A href='http://www.wheatfarm.com']http://www.wheatfarm.com[/a]

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