Question about diagram for arbor overhaul

[Guest]

The left side pulley has loosened up on our 613H and I took it out of the deck and I'm wondering what manual I need to buy to get the brake down of how it should come apart and go back togeather. What is loose is where the splined shaft comes out underneath the deck. It shifts from side to side about 1/16". I see the bearing on the shaft on the top side, but is there one down by the blade as well? Thanks for the info, Warren

[Guest]

Got the search going, I think I found the reply that had a picture or diagram. The reply was posted by Jeff and the number was 2686. Guess I'm going to pull all three arbors off and take them to the local machine shop to replace them unless someone adivises differently. Thanks, Warren

[bobjack]

Hi Gents, All the spindles that I've seen have two bearings (upper and lower), even cheap murrays. When the bearings get any noticable slop, by all means replace them before you trash your arbor shafts. Bearings are 6 to 10 and shafts are 25 to 40 dollars. If you trash the shaft, you still have to buy the bearings anyway. I have seen some photos of your deck spindles somewhere on this site. May have been in replies to a post, and I don't think that when you do a search, the search engine will searech replies--only the original posts. That search capability would be great--if I'm wrong, someone correct me. Dadsy98, my old 3310V had set out for many years when my Father owned it and I had to cut the nut off with a grinder and trashed the pully also. I had soaked the assy with penetrating oil (for weeks) and tried everthing I could on "several occasions" over a couple of years (back burner project), but finally bit the bullet and cut the nut off. I didn't have an impact wrench, tho. That may be just the ticket. Good Luck. bobjack

[Dadsy98]

Hey Bobjack My friend's impact did the trick. My lower bearing was shot. The upper one ain't bad but what the hell, I'll replace them both. Any thoughts on driving the races out? I could take it to a shop and have them do it but, I'd rather DIY .

[Dadsy98]

I have the same type of question as Warren. Does anybody have a parts list and exploded view of the deck arbors used on a AC300/400 series? I'm going to rebuild/destroy what I have now.

[Dadsy98]

#@$%&@# !!! I have tried to take that $%*&*@#$ pulley off the arbor. I've tried oil, heat, and big wrenches. all I accomplished was rounding off the nut. Next step is a friend's impact wrench. (160 pounds of torque ? )...

[bobjack]

Dadsy98, All the deck bearings I've had were one piece ball bearing assemblies, meaning that the inner and outer races were assembled with balls inside and could not be disassembled without destroying the brg. Unless you have tapered roller bearings, I wouldn't think you have any races to remove unless your ball bearings were so shot that they came apart!! I drive races out and into front hubs with brass punches and a hammer, tapping on opposite sides (so as not to cock and wedge the race) like torqing a head. Brass won't chew up the bores or ruin new races. New deck bearings (when you really need them and don't have a loud muffler) get rid of a lot of general noise that you don't recognize as coming from the deck. True for me, anyway!! Be sure and grease or rebuild your tensioner if it has a lot of play in it -- new bushings and maybe shaft or whole new assy. If you go all new bearings and cherry out the tensioner and don't wash your deck or let it sit out in the weather, and grease the tensioner once a year, you'll probably get 10 to 20 years out of it before a new rebuild. Good Luck bobjack ps -- pay attention to post 11646 -- a reply on your original post( From: marionwcueball@cs.com AKA Marion W. Kerr ) about keys, keyways, and stack-up.