Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
rsnik

Split rail fence.

Recommended Posts

rsnik
Had to change plans because of Tropical Storm Earl arriving as we speak. I dumped another couple yards of loam, skimmed off piles of stored loam with really huge weeds on the pile as I thought the high fiber content in the loam would help. The rain bands came in and I had to quit working with the Bobcat 250 as the slick conditions were too dangerous. I ended up doing all the work with the Sovereign 18 with the 46" springer blade. Granted the loam was freshly dumped and it was periodically, pouring rain but I was astonished at how the tractor could get work done. The tractor has some very old, but still good, Sears aggy tires that I am sure you are familiar with, off of some old tractor I bought, along with chains. No weights. No action pics, just the results.




Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rsnik
I built up that wide, level area on top and the steep embankment with roughly a hundred of yards of fill and about 30 yards of loam. There used to be a lawn there with a gentle slope. They have a shrub planting out here on the Atlantic coast called a beach rose that is used to hold steep sand dunes. It is very hardy, low maintenance and perfect for holding that steep, sandy embankment. Here is a pic below. It's called beach rose or rosa rugosa.


The pic shows just one big shrub, but if you plant a bunch of them they turn into a big dense hedge, ideal for extra large planting areas. I got a deal on a bunch of them. I put the split rail fence down low so the beach rose hedge can fall back on it and keep it off the driveway. Also I was able to dig into solid ground instead of loose fill and loam down low with the backhoe. The pics don't show it but I dig a big hole with the backhoe, use a couple bags of sack crete to pinch the post so I can set the height and level it. Then I back fill and tamp with reprocessed asphalt, which compacts really well (got a deal on 50 tons of asphalt and 140 yards of loam back in June). I push a little dirt on top which the pics show. You can kick those posts and they don't budge. Up higher, in the loose dirt, probably not so much. The berm is just to keep this storm from washing the embankment out and why I am up long past my bed time. It is not looking so good. The grading was intended to both keep the water from flowing over the bank and also to get drainage going down the length and not form a lake that could breach the berm. I am getting a get a lake in a bad place.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rsnik
The lake was getting very close to breaching the berm. The first pic shows the water line, but the water level looked closer to breaching to me when I was out there last night at about 2:30 AM. I was just setting to with a shovel when it went from pouring rain to starry night in a about a minute; when that storm cleared out it did so in a big hurry. Back to fence building today:












Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • airgunner
    • spi
    • simplewrench
    • Brettw
  • Today's Birthdays

    No users celebrating today
  • Recent Status Updates

    • dav-1

      dav-1  »  Talntedmrgreen

        Over a year ago, you answered a question I had about the tool bar for my FDT. In your reply dated Dec 31, 2019  you said the spacer, part #16, goes in the bar to allow for up and down depth adjustment. does this mean the bolt has to be tightened at whatever depth desired or does the bolt slide up and down, allowing the lower hitch to free float?
         If it is tightened so the lower hitch and the bar are rigid, then is the depth to be controlled by the shoes? Or by the lift handle?
        Is there any kind of user directions for the tool bar? The Outdoor Power Manual basically shows how to assemble the bar but not how to use it
      · 1 reply
    • tribswede

      tribswede  »  goatfarmer

      ISO a deck for a 6516 H and all the connecting hardware any ideas on where to start?
       
      · 1 reply
  • Adverts

×