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No more slip-slop in my 3 speed


donmoore1904

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My trans rebuild is complete. The "slip-slop" I described I had is gone sm01 I replaced three keys inside the trans, in addition to the axle drive gear ones. I do have an axle tube seal leak, which is unfortunate but not the end of the world. This job, which I initially announced I had no interest in doing, gave me a whole new appreciation for the tractor. First of all, I became familiar with "NLA", and the fact there are many parts for these tractors unobtainable. I didn't know this, as most of the parts I previously got were for the motor and deck. NLA made me appreciate the more beaten up spare 3sp trans I used for a couple of parts. Beaten up is a whole lot better than NA. I had to make one key, and swapped in a couple of gears and shafts from the spare. I needed a new axle tube, as both had splits. I also gained quite an appreciation for venting. I had replaced my trans oil previously, but the water inside must have been trapped by sludge. I have a vented plug now sm01. It has been quite a year. I redid the ignition, the carb, the trans and hava a "new" deck with far less wear and functional height adjusters (what a concept). I am ready for sandblasting, paint and decals, after I fix that seal leak. Thanks again for the help from people here!
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wow, thats great!! I have to ask, how was reassembly of the 3 speed transmission? I did my hydro which has very few gears and I thought that was tricky to get all the shafts in at once.... very nice... now youre good to go... as im sure you know.. that seal will only take you a few minutes... unless of course its on the diff side... then maybe half an hour, since youve had it all apart all ready... I used the thick plastic trick to get the seal over the end of the axle tube... the plastic I used was the bag the seal came in!! worked great congratulations!!
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quote:
Originally posted by sammiefish I have to ask, how was reassembly of the 3 speed transmission? I did my hydro which has very few gears and I thought that was tricky to get all the shafts in at once.... [snip] that seal will only take you a few minutes... unless of course its on the diff side... then maybe half an hour, since youve had it all apart all ready... I used the thick plastic trick to get the seal over the end of the axle tube... the plastic I used was the bag the seal came in!! worked great congratulations!!
Thanks! The shafts/gears were pretty easy with the manual that Scott provided. The only trick was the input shaft and getting the shift forks positioned, which I figured out myself after skipping a key sentence in the manual :I
It *is* on the diff side, of course. Which is painted now. I had trouble pushing the seal over the snap ring groove, and probably ruined it. I will use your trick next time, which I hadn't heard of :(
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not my trick!! Learned it here... ReedS posted a great article with pictures and full explanations.... It is archived in the articles section: http://simpletractors.com/club2/portal_External.asp?LinkID=220&LinkName=changing%20rear%20axle%20seals&CatID=29&CatTitle=Axles&URL=http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=18062
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Based on your description, I decided to use a piece of mylar. It looks a lot like what is in Reed's writeup. The seal slipped right over the groove with no problem. I wish I had seen this before I ruined mine. Nothing like experience. I have come to find that a good mechanic knows all about using a thin sleeve to install seals. To get the "old" seal out, I used a method I previously used on a truck crankshaft seal. I carefully drilled through the seal in the center on each side of the axle tube, and then drove a self tapping screw in just enough to hold. Then pry outward. I didn't see how to get a screwdriver through it (it is metal inside) to pry, which is what the old school mechanic told me to do. I imagine if I tried, I could have been able to pry it out as Reed did, from the edge. I haven't used it yet, I hope it doesn't leak. I'd rather not deal with those pesky snap rings again.
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