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johnmonkey

El Toro with crooked horns-update 2

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johnmonkey
Hello all, well I got most of the bugs ironed out, however, I'm not liking the look of the crooked stack mufflers. The sound is AWESOME, it has that -bladda-bladda-bladda-bladda Harley Davidson sound 8D. Does anyone have a muffler remedy? I have 3/4" exhaust and used a 1" to 3/4" reducer to make the cub mufflers fit, there are a few 90 degree el's and a few 22.5 degree bends. I'm not sure how to make the pipes go vertical?? Any ideas?jh












My favorite, I like the AC logo on the seat ;)

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Ronald Hribar
You could take exhaust pipe and bend it so the mufflers are vertical Also find a way to anchor the pipes to the motor would be a shame to destroy the exhaust manifold when you hit something. I do not have trees and I found garage door bent the pipe at point of anchor and i was able to bend it straight I have muffler mounted in stock location . And the pipe is only thing vertical

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D10-Allis
Not my Orange tractor but it dosn't look like he has any 22.5 elbows, his is also a 919 not sure if that changes anything. If you only use 2 90 degree elbows you should be able to get them straight up, might need to swap out your short straights for a little longer one's. Dosn't look like he cut the hood either. Good Luck.sm01 D10




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HubbardRA
John, You can put two 90 degree ells together to make a movable joint and allow you to line up the mufflers to vertical. In other words, an ell turned rearward, then another to turn it back to the side. Then you have a joint that can be rotated to any angle that you need to stand the pipes straight up.

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midnightpumpkin
quote:
Originally posted by HubbardRA
John, You can put two 90 degree ells together to make a movable joint and allow you to line up the mufflers to vertical. In other words, an ell turned rearward, then another to turn it back to the side. Then you have a joint that can be rotated to any angle that you need to stand the pipes straight up.
What Rod said with a couple of these to get everything vertical. http://www.mcmaster.com/#self-locking-electrical-panel-nuts/=9gqlt3 John U

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SimpleTom
If that's a Briggs twin engine it's just like the one that I used in my 725 puller. Look closely at the pics.




On the left side I used a street elbow/90 out of the block to go outward horizontally and another street 90 to go vertical. On the right side I used a street 45 out of the block pointing forward, then a street 90 going outward horizontally and one more street 90 to go vertical. Once you get the pipes pointing outward you can use whatever length pipe you need and regular 90s to get them past your hood. You will also want to use those locking nuts on every joint otherwise it will loosen with engine vibration.

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johnmonkey
Thanks for the replies guys, yes it is a 16 hp Briggs Twill I/C. I plan on using the lock washers and make a brace for anchoring it to the block. I want to get the pipes straight first, then make a brace. The first set of pics at the show, the exhaust is mounted on a Kohler. The 725 can exhaust straight out the sides, mine has the hood in the path and would have to cut the hood :(. I'm not sure if you can see, but the exhaust port is on a 22.5 degree angle on the engine (in other words, it is not on a vertical or horizontal plane). jh

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SimpleTom
John, I guess I can't really tell from your pictures. But it appears that the engine side shrouds are just behind your hood opening. My exhaust comes out behind the front of the engine side shrouds. It should work if you do what I did. Mine is a 16hp Briggs Twin I/C as well. Unfotunately I have the 725 put away so I can't give you better close ups. Tom

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timflury
Street EL= external thread on one end and internal thread on the other at 90 degrees. Standard EL= Internal threads on both ends. Do as Tom Said, you will be happier with the results. Get a box of locknuts at your local hardware store and use them at EVERY pipe joint. Do fab up supports for the mufflers. Tom doesn't use his puller on a daily basis and he doesn't have that much weight up there to require any support. Good luck.

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johnmonkey
I got the lock washers and I will work on a support bracket. I have taker her real slow in the sea trials (ex Coastie here, arghpr8). If I make a run, I drive it in slow speed. Oh I found out that my lights don't work. Does anyone where to start looking? It is a Briggs twin I/C so it has an armature around the flywheel. jh

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johnmonkey
Well I got the lock washers placed and I straightened out some of the joints. I used Teflon tape on the joints will it work?? I should have asked BEFORE I re-plumbed the exhaust:I. I started a bracket. Next week at work, I will weld in some gussets and bolt the bracket to the muffler clamps. Does anyone see any problem areas? Thanks for looking. jh










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johnmonkey
Okay, I found out that I have the correct lock washers. Mine are steel as I placed a magnet on it and it stuck, so I don't think it will melt. I also looked on my can of anti-seize and it is for exhausts, so it looks like I will need to remove and replace the pipes with anti-seize :(!:(!. Now on to some more sea trialspr8. I tried my home rigged Johnny bucket and the hydro lif is AWESOME!!!.




My exhaust bracket will need to be modified already B) because the lift arm will get the the way of the bracket C. I am glad that I put the bucket on so that I didn't find out AFTER I made the first bracket


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johnmonkey
quote:
It is just an exhust into open air what do you need a sealent for?
I usually put on some type of thread sealer to make it easier to take apart, that way I won't be cutting it off the engine at a later date. jh

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Tiny
I've got one like that and just have a couple smaller bullet mufflers and a couple 4" sections of pipe and an elbow on each cylinder running down to the front behind the bumper. Far less weight, protected from branches and such. I'm fairly certain that is an aluminum engine too. Looks like problems down the road to me.

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