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joelk

16 HP Upgrade worth it?

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joelk
I have a good running 12hp briggs in my 3212H, but the pan leaks oil to the point that I want to take it out and fix it. I have a chance to get a 16hp briggs (326431) to replace it instead. I understand that it will be a direct bolt in replacement is that true? Also, does the extra hp make a noticable difference? The one time I could use more power seems to be when blowing snow with the 42" blower. Is it worth it? (extra time and money).

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Burntime
Depends on how much more money. I run 16 and 17hp tractors and I notice it more power then a 12. I know that snowthrowers do eat the hp. I have my 17hp snorting sometimes!

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mohrds
I beleive the 16HP has the Syncro gears in the back and the 12HP has them in the front. You may have some alignment issues with pulleys and such with that swap, but nothing a good amount of measuring, drilling, and hammering can't fix. Doug

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mohrds
quote:
Originally posted by Burntime
I know that snowthrowers do eat the hp. I have my 17hp snorting sometimes!
Maybe you just need another coat of wax on the auger :D

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JimDk
Joel, The 16 will fit just fine. You might want to check the 16 for a dip stick on top. If it has that type, you will want to use the oil pan from the 12. The top dip stick is not fun when you have to remove your hood each time to check oil.

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Brettw
Generally, a more horsepower upgrade, that does not require huge engineering or fabrication issues, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg, is almost always "worth it". However, if you have a "good running 12 horse" and are swapping with a "not sure what I have here 16 horse, there is that to consider too. IMHO

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timflury
Run the 12hp and rebuild/restore the 16. That way you have a working tractor while you are doing your upgrade. Your tractor would only be down while you are actually making the swap. Someones signature here says that "There's no substitute for larger displacement" or something to that effect.

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joelk
Jim, so the 16HP will line up w/o any mods? It was taken out of a Simplicity originally and is a 1976 model. (I don't do well with custom upgrades). I have never changed a motor, how heavy are they to take out? Can you just lift it (back not the greatest) or do I need some rigging? Thanks for all your input guys.

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Brettw
With a bad back, it will take some help. They are not light. It can be done, by hand, if you don't have back issues. But it isn't necessrily fun lifting. Do both of the engines have a starter / generator setup? Electronics could be your biggest hurdle. Otherwise, for the most part, it should bolt right up.

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joelk
Yes they both have starter generators, so it should be ok for electrical hookup. I think I'll look into a small hoist/pulley to lift it out. Any idea what it weighs?

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HubbardRA
Your problem may as simple as the need for a new oil plan gasket or even just tightening the bolts. I have pulled the pans many times and replaced without a new gasket. I just put a light coating RTV on top of the old gasket and bolt the pan in place. Replacing everything is not always the easiest solution. If you are good with 12 Hp then just fix the pan. By-the-way, the 16 Hp engine will definitely use more fuel. Most people don't think about that. My 13 Hp B/S uses a noticeably greater amount of fuel than my 10 Hp B/S. I hate to see how much fuel my 25 Hp engine is going to use when I get that tractor together. I know I will love the power, but I probably will not like the fuel consumption, but it will be worth it when I need it like for snowblowing.

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rpickle
I did this swap a few months ago. The only thing that I needed to do (and didn't) was rotate the oil pan so that the drain plug matched the hole all ready in the frame. Instead, I cut another hole..... Haven't really put it to the test yet as far as more ponies. My swap was primarily due to the 12 needing work because she smoked quite a bit. Jim makes a great point with the dipstick too. Mine is on the top and I have to loosen the hood to check the oil. Rick

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joelk
Well I took the grill off to get a better look at the gasket bolts and sure enough one was loose as Rod suggested. I put a new lock washer on the bolt and tightened it down. Nothing missing on the gasket from the outside, so maybe it will be that simple. We'll see after I degrease the engine again and put a few hours on her. One thing is for sure, the more you take apart, the more you learn and the easier these things seem to be. I'll let you know if it stops leaking.

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rsnik
quote:
By-the-way, the 16 Hp engine will definitely use more fuel. Most people don't think about that. My 13 Hp B/S uses a noticeably greater amount of fuel than my 10 Hp B/S. I hate to see how much fuel my 25 Hp engine is going to use when I get that tractor together.
I have a Sovereign 18 with a Kohler CH18S and I finally looked in the manual and it says it burns 2 gallons per hour. Probably when new. I think it's more like 3 gallons now. So you need to fill up two 5 gallon jugs to keep on hand and it gets aggravating how it seems like every time I go to fill up, both of them are empty again. I got a 101 LL a while back. Original 10 hp. I use it for hours and hours and every time I check that tiny tank there is still some gas in there. I like that.

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MrSteele
Well, I just put a rebuilt 10 in place of a worn out 16, and see a difference, but, the Landlord still does all I ask it to do, and then some, most of the time. I do have to do some of the things I used to do in 2nd gear, in 1st gear. As for your back, some kind of engine lift will save it. I am not certain of the weight, only that I am having an A-frame built for lifting these engines, with a 500# capacity. They are not that heavy, but. Gas consumption? The 16 did use more, but I also got more done in a shorter time, so I would consider it negligible, to a point.

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