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ac.d17iv

axle seal

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ac.d17iv
I'm getting ready to replace my axle seals on my AC 712. I read this great post and it will help a ton. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=18062 My question is do I need a hub puller to complete the task of replacing both seals?

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HubbardRA
No hub puller is needed! If you loosen the set screw in the collar on the right side axle, you can pull the right hub off with your hands. Then loosen the collar on the left side and push the left hub all the way against the left axle tube. This will let you remove the spacers and diff gear that drives the axle to the left wheel. Make specific notation of where each of the spacer washers goes in the assembly. If you put these back wrong your diff will be locked. Then pull the axle shaft out the left side. Now you should be able to peck on the back of the diff and have the diff and collar slide off of the keys on the axle tube. Now you can install the seals. It is good to cover the keyways with tape to prevent damaging the seals when you slide them on the tube. Reassemble in reverse order. I hope this is correct, since it has been a few years since I have taken one completely apart. I am sure that if I am wrong about part of the assembly someone will jump in and correct me.

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ReedS
There's more than one way to skin the cat on this. I don't always feel the need to play with greasy, washers, gears, half moon keys and the dreaded little snap ring! So I pull the left hub and set collar off, go over to the right side and knock the entire right side off axle and all, that way I don't have to fiddle with the diff, yes there is still a snap ring to deal with but it is larger and a little easier to deal with. Not all left hand hubs are difficult to remove but having a puller of some kind to fall back on is a good thing. Good luck!

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sammiefish
on mine by removing the L hub allows the whole axle to be removed as well...(not the tube) then you dont have to monkey with the diff at all... Just be sure the set screw on the hub doesnt snap off in the hole... then you wont be able to remove the L hub... inspect the set screw when it comes out... if you try a puller on the hub if the set screw is broken off in the hole and you dont notice you can crack the hub..... dont ask how I know.... Im with ReedS on this one....

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Brettw
quote:
There's more than one way to skin the cat on this
You're right. Bill Gates picks up his closed circuit phone and "Charles" the gardener picks up. Bill says "Charles, call the Simplicity dealer, and have them pick up the 712, replace the axle seals, tune it up, change the fluids, put new tires on, have 'em repower it right away, and some new paint would be nice. Then have them deliver it back here, and then wash and wax it." Cat skinned. The easy way. 8D

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ReedS
quote:
You're right. Bill Gates picks up his closed circuit phone and "Charles" the gardener picks up. Bill says "Charles, call the Simplicity dealer, and have them pick up the 712, replace the axle seals, tune it up, change the fluids, put new tires on, have 'em repower it right away, and some new paint would be nice. Then have them deliver it back here, and then wash and wax it." Cat skinned. The easy way.
Boy I wish I were Bill Gates LOL

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OrangeMetalGuy
If you do remove the diff, make sure to stuff a rag down under the axle so the keys don't fall into the diff. That is a rather unpleasant thing to have happen :( Also, a tip - I use a couple of pvc couplings (one slid over the axle tube followed by the 2nd one) and a rubber mallet to seat the seal. That way, the entire seal has pressure on it at the same time as you tap it in.

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HubbardRA
You guys were talking about removing the left hub first and pushing the axle out the right side. On a 712, the left hub is welded to the axle. You have to push it to the right and remove the gear parts and snap ring, since the left hub will not come off. Then you pull the axle out the left side. My 716H, 713S and 7116H all have the left hubs welded to the axle. Oh, by the way, so does my 61 Wards, since I replaced that axle with one from a 716H nearly 20 years ago. The last removable left side hub that I used is now on a tractor belonging to ROY, and it was custom made to eliminate the sloppy fit problems with the set screw type hubs.

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PhanDad
I've removed a couple of the "removable" left rear hubs. One the hubs came off easily. The other one didn't want to move at all, then I noticed one of the set screws didn't look right. It had broken off in the hub. It's not an uncommon problem. The set screws aren't easy to drill out. The bottom line is if the set screws come out whole, I don't think you'll need a puller. But as Reed said, "having a puller of some kind to fall back on is a good thing".

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ardisam
The best way that i found, just follow the service manual. I have done a 7114s, 917, and a 916. The last two I did not need the service manual, because it explains it so well. Ryan-WI Allis Chalmers 916H Allis Chalmers 917H Deutz Allis 1920H Deutz Allis 912H

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sammiefish
I found that the service manuals are a great guide but they are absolutely variable... the best example there is: try to figure out how many washers are on the transmission side of the diff gear in the diff... If you dont find 3 different pictures you arent looking hard enough. sorry about suggesting the removable L hub... all mine are like that... 71 - 74... but they are all allis built. good eye on the model specific fact.

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