brockway 0 Posted November 5, 2010 I need some help and I know that I am at the right place.This winter one of my projects is to set up one from the hive to pull with.Is their one that would be better to set up?We have a 63 64,65,66,68 and a 70 all 10 horse tractors.Want to get into this with my dad and my son.Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dentwizz 6 Posted November 5, 2010 Later model parts may be easier acquired than earlier ones. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ka9bxg 3 Posted November 5, 2010 I say go with gear drive over hydro.They work better for me.I would go with the lightest of them as you can go in the lighter class or add weight and go into the bigger class. Have fun Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HubbardRA 19 Posted November 6, 2010 The very first thing that you need to do is get a copy of the rules from the organization where you will be pulling. The weight classes, engine sizes, tire sizes, and safety restrictions all have large impacts on the size and type of tractor that would be best for the class you are going to pull in. I pulled for over 20 years so I am well familiar with setting up tractors to be competitive. Through the years we pulled with 7 different pulling organizations in different areas. Each one had different rules and different levels of competition. A well set up tractor can be competitive anywhere that it meets the rules. If you want to see the rules we pulled under at our home track, go to SVTPA.com. The rules have changed very little since we quit pulling. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeES 417 Posted November 6, 2010 Rod, has it covered. If your list is all Allis/Simplicity large frame tractors then I suggested the one to pull with should be the 1970 model because it probably has the longer wheelbase. We have pulled for 12 years, and have racked up dozens and dozens of first places with stock AC tractors (except for wheels and tires). I will gladly regurgitate all of our secrets. ;) Just ask. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brockway 0 Posted November 7, 2010 Thanks guys,from what I have seen of the rules of lakeshore garden tractor pulls rule book I would run in the stock.Mike did any of your tractors have the vari speed?I think that I would change it so that is not.Would the vari speed slip to much under the load?Yesterday I went to a guys horse who worked for a Allis dealership in the 60's and 70's and he had some weights that went on the rear lift he said that the were Allis parts.I have wheel weights and for the front. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeES 417 Posted November 7, 2010 Mike, we used a vari-speed the first couple of years with a strong 12hp Briggs engine. If it is set up right (good straight, clean pulleys and a good belt) with all linkages good, it worked good. WE had to clean the belt and pulleys with brake cleaner after every few pulls. Note: you need at least 1" of free play on the clutch petal rod, becasue as belt travels from low to high the tension/clutch pulley need to pivot freely. It was fun...we would leave the line in low range, front tires on the ground, made sure engine rpms were up (after about 10ft) and then slam the vari-lever foward. The tractor would pull the front end up for about 10-15 ft until the speed caught up. Just like the big super stock tractors when their clutches come in. We ran 2nd gear and usually ended the pull with the vari-lever full forward. Be careful backing off the vari-lever (slowing down), do this slowly a notch at a time. If you back off too quick your forward momentum stalls for a second and you are all done. BTW after the 2nd year we put a 18hp Kohler in the tractor and the vari-system belt just slipped. ? With the 12hp you ended the pull with the front end off the ground and back wheels spinning and no belt slip that we could tell. Many years later (at a local event) we entered a pure stock tractor (must be 12hp or less) set up identical to our original puller, except for wheels and tires, with the vari-drive and we took 1st place by 20ft. If in good shape the vari-drive will work well with a 10hp. I don't recommend the vari-drive for 16hp or above. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brockway 0 Posted November 7, 2010 Thanks Mike,I have had problems with getting the vari speed adjusted any tips on that?I will admit that the 210 is my favorite one in our hive.It is the tractor I use around the house.What tires do you run?How did you wire a kill switch? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeES 417 Posted November 8, 2010 Vari-speed: 1. Very good to new belt. 2. To start with follow the book with the set up. You especially need to make sure that in high speed the belt is riding at the top of the driven pulley and is down low in the drive pulley. Tires: Rules tell you what tire size you can run. We went mod stock or improved stock that allowed 26x12x12 tires. Kill switch: If a Briggs wire into the same ignition wire as the key switch. If a battery ignition Kohler, wire kill awitch into the points side of the coil. You can find the switch at most trailer/RV sales used for the emergency braking system or you can most anything for garden tractor pulling at: www.midwestsupercub.net Share this post Link to post Share on other sites