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mike_sdak

mounting engine to driveshaft - 917

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mike_sdak
Good Evening. I plan to mount my briggs 16 single in my 917H in the next few days (finally). I am curious just how "fussy" the driveshaft and coupling connection process is. I read through the procedure in the tech. manual, and it talks about providing 1-21/64" (I believe that's the number) gap between the flywheel and the driveshaft. It sounds a little too precise for my means at this point. To this point, I have mounted the (7116) driveshaft to the BGB coupler. I plan to use the rubber coupler and related parts from the kt-17 when coupling to the flywheel. Do I need to loosen the setscrew in the BGB yoke, prior to making the connection? Any other important details I should pay attention to?

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mike_sdak
Thanks Ray and Al. I do have the coupling, but I just wonder if I am making the operation more complex than it needs to be. I will loosen the setscrew, per Ray's comment above. I'll wade into it sometime today and see how it goes.

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PhanDad
Mike, The operation is not complex IF you have the correct driveshaft. It sounds like you have the correct one, it should be about 19" long with a nose that goes in the rubber coupling. It's about 1 3/4" longer than the KT17 driveshaft. There was also a longer driveshaft for the 16HP Briggs installation, it was used in the 7116 mfg #1690477 tractor. This driveshaft doesn't have a "nose" for use with the rubber coupling, it uses 2 fiberglass disks like the earlier tractors. The same adapter that was used between the rubber coupling and the KT17 flywheel is used for the installation of the Briggs. After you've loosened the BGB yoke set screw, make sure the yoke slides freely on the BGB input shaft. This movement takes up the slight difference in engine placement and parts tolerances on final bolt up. After everything else is bolted tight, the set screw is tightened. Did you already make the wiring changes you asked about in an earlier post? How'd it go?

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mike_sdak
Bill, I do have the driveshaft with a "nose", courtesy of RayS, so I should be set. I haven't done the rewiring, but I figure I will do it like you spelled out in the previous post, reusing the kohler engine connector and driveshaft. I plan to mount the regulator on top of the S-G mount bracket, as it was apparently mounted on the bracket donor tractor, a 3212V. The solenoid will be in factory location.

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mike_sdak
I got it semi-mounted tonight, but my engine is maybe 1/4" too far forward to line up with the holes in the frame. A summary of my steps: 1. loosened set screw in yoke on BGB. Yoke doesn't slide on the shaft, (forward or back) at this point. 2. mounted steel engine coupler to briggs. Drew bolts up tight. 3. slipped rubber coupler on steel engine coupler, lined up with driveshaft and set engine in place. Should I be able to slide the yoke farther back on the BGB shaft? I would guess there is about 3/16" between yoke and BGB case. The rubber coupling has washers stuck to it, front and back. Do I need to remove one set of these? <edit> I just saw Bill's comment about the yoke needing to be free on the BGB shaft. What's the best way to free that up? Penetrating oil?

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PhanDad
The rubber coupling has bosses built into the coupling itself, they are part of coupling; two bosses, 180 deg apart on each side of the coupling. There shouldn't be any other washers. Here's a pic of the rubber coupler on my 75th:


One set of raised bosses connect to the metal coupler mounted to the Briggs; the set of raised bosses on the other side connect to the driveshaft flange. Lockwashers and nuts are used on the other side of the metal coupler and driveshaft flange. The easiest way to get the BGB yoke freed up is to run long full thread cap screws (about 3") through the yoke and let them contact the frame. After they touch the frame, tighten them equally and they will push the yoke off the BGB shaft. Depending on how rusty the parts are, lightly sand or steel wool the inside of the yoke and outside of the BGB shaft. Wipe the parts clean and oil or grease the inside of the yoke and then it should slide back and forth easily.

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mike_sdak
Bill, thanks for the prompt reply. I will give it a go tomorrow. Also, the oil fill pipe on the oil pan is right up against the frame. Is there any special arrangement for this? Sorry, I don't have a picture handy, but it is about a 2-3" long pipe extended on a 45 from the oil pan, with the little threaded plastic plug on it. I have added a dipstick from an old 15 hp briggs, so I have that covered, if I need to remove the fill pipe.

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PhanDad
The oil fill you're talking about probably looks like this:


The pic is from my install of a 16HP Briggs into my GTHL. I had to reverse the oil pan to get the drain to match the frame cutout. The fill part just clears the frame. Hopefully yours will too if you push the engine as far to the left as it will go before you tighten the engine mounting bolts. If it still hits, I believe the upward angled piece will unscrew. I'm not sure what the threads are, but I would suspect they are some type of pipe thread. You could then plug the hole and add oil through the dipstick tube. Hopefully someone can confirm the above and tell you the thread type/size.

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