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SmilinSam

OkEy DoKeY bOb... Spout Rotator is done

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SmilinSam
Finally got my butt in gear and got'er done I like using the front part of late 60's to Early 70's rotator rods to cut down and use for the rotating shaft. This is the 3rd setup I have done like this. I have a bad habit of selling the tractors after I do this operation.....kind of why I have drug my feet for 3 years. But, I got tottaly sick and tired of my lengthened hand rod coming apart in the middle of the winter.}:) Last winter was a real PIA! Rod fell apart again, both throttle and both throttle and choke cables froze and bent. So we got new cables and installed them in a manner that they shouldnt bend, and got the rotator done. Try not to puke at the color combination here:D
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/More%20stuff/Picture010.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/More%20stuff/Picture006.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/More%20stuff/Picture007.jpg[/img]
Overhead shot here below. Welded a 3/4" 12 pt socket on the end of the rod.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/More%20stuff/Picture011.jpg[/img]
Wires arecarefully tucked up and tied or clipped off, and ground wire bolted to frame of tractor going to blower frame at spout motor.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/More%20stuff/Picture008.jpg[/img]
Switch is mounted down on the side of the cowl in easy reach but out of the way of everything else.
[img]http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv227/Smilinsam/More%20stuff/Picture009.jpg[/img]
Guess next year I should make a remote deflector chute control too:J Other than that I am going to make a heat deflector to keep the carb I cables from icing up.. Enjoy..

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PhanDad
Great work as usual. Thanks for sharing the pics. Since blower is blue, I assume it's a Homelite. Great mix of colors there; you won't sneak up on anybody. ;)

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OrangeMetalGuy
Great idea! I love the thought of getting rid of that long manual adjustment handle. You have my head going now.. I have to look into doing this to mine.

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BLT
nIcE wOrK sAm.:D Mine is a little different. I got a handful of GM window regulators and was quick to discover that there are RH and LH mounting versions. I drilled extra mounting holes to accommodate either. I also noticed that the spout opening is a few degrees forward from vertical, so I that to bend the motor mounting a tad to accommodate the take-up shaft.
[img]/club2/attach/BLT/Rortaor1.jpg[/img]
When it come to driving a shaft, I was hung up for a bit on what to do for a drive coupling. It took me a couple of days and the answer was in my tool box. A 15/16", 12-point, 3/8" squire drive standard socket fit very snugly over the regulator drive gear.
[img]/club2/attach/BLT/Rortaor2.jpg[/img]
With that taken care of, I decided to go with a smaller takeup shaft. So I took an old bumper jack tire iron, cut it to suit and with the bench grinder squared off one end to fit the socket and rolled down the other end to fit into the nylon bearing on the blower. Everything you see floats and and no set screws for the shaft coupling are needed. To insure that I made a support bar from a piece of 1/2" conduit to keep the mounting bracket rigid. Plus I don't own a welder, so decided to go with a simple bolt together idea.^
[img]/club2/attach/BLT/Rortaor3.jpg[/img]

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RedbarnRick
I wish someone would try out the geared rotator conversion it's easy and works unbelievably smooth, but either way it's better than those dang rods and cables always falling off. Here's the post on the rotator. [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=57153[/url]

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SmilinSam
quote:
Originally posted by RedbarnRick
I wish someone would try out the geared rotator conversion it's easy and works unbelievably smooth, but either way it's better than those dang rods and cables always falling off. Here's the post on the rotator. [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=57153[/url]
No doubt the geared setup is the better engineeringdOd... .... but I only got about $12 and 3-4 hours in my rotator project8D And for a tight wad Swede like me, Cheap counts for something:D I got 4 mid 70s GM power window motors off Ebay for a total price of $20, and used one for this project. The bracket for the motor was a quadrant/mount bracket from a junked 6000 series Simplicity lift lever. The cable rod was the original rotator rod from the 1972 Homelite Snowblower The socket was like $3 at Lowes. And the control switch was $2 at a electric supply co. Wiring was all from various junk tractors plus a length of electric wire for $2.

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RedbarnRick
Yeah Sam, saving money is a big priority these days! Seems like the parts were around $50, the rest I had laying around too. Now someone with welding skills could do the same thing I did with only one gear and tacking it to the chute. Backyard engineering is cheap and fun!

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