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landlord2110

Symptons of a burnt or sticking valve

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landlord2110
my landlord is running not smoothly(smells rich)and tried adjusting carb and didnt matter. could this be Symptons of a burnt or sticking valve? can you get valves & springs?

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RayS
Here is a parts manual for a 10hp. http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=18mqvGXAnfBhU7y You can check if parts are still available and rices at the link below. I believe they are still available though. http://www.jackssmallengines.com/searchdb2.cfm

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dentwizz
Valves are still available for 10hp. I just went through a bit of research on that in the midst of my 23D rebuild. Before buying, though, check the actual valve as it is a royal pain to take the valve keepers out and reinstall...sm00 Remove the head and rotate the engine so the valves lift. If the color is black or silver it is likely fine. Blueish or odd color would be burnt. More than likely however I think ignition could be a culprit. You have chased fuel already. I am in the process of redoing my dad's 2210 landord and the skip was pronounced before redoing the ignition. Changing to Magnetron helped(mainly due to bad wires to the points). The kill wire would vibrate and short to chassis only enough to make a miss not a die, but there was also a marked difference between a poor fitting spark plug contact and good, and a iffy spark plug and a "Briggs Genuine" spark plug. I too expected a possible valve, but they were perfectly fine in this case. You may have otherwise, but electrical is much easier to fix;)

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rsnik
The rich smell could be stale gas or just that good old, trusty, smokey, 10 hp smell. Warm the engine up and when you are getting the lumpy tick over take a water spray bottle and spray water on the carb to intake gasket. If the engine runs better you have an air leak due to failed intake gaskets. Test the compression. You should have 90 lbs or so. If it is low, check that all the head bolts are tight. If not, go side to opposite side, criss-cross when tightening them. If no torque wrench available, get all the bolts snug then work them all again a bit more snug. Don't over tighten. If you remove the head to check the valves have a good look at the head gasket when you pull the head. Every time your engine backfires in hot weather when you shut down it beats up on your head gasket. A failing head gasket will give you that lumpy tick over when the engine warms up. Drain your gas and refill. Water leaks past the gas gauge and even a little water is a big problem. Fresh fuel has fixed the problem more often than anything else for me. Remove your points box cover and run the engine in total darkness. Look for sparking points indicating worn points, failing condenser or a worn out points plunger. Disconnect your kill wire at the junction point near the points if you have one or at the points. If the problem stops, your kill wire has a bad spot somewhere between the points and your ignition switch and vibration is intermittently shorting out the ignition.

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JimDk
No one has mentioned valve clearance. You should have .008/.009 on the intake, and .018/.019 on the exhaust. As valve seats and faces wear, clearance becomes less, and with heat expansion may not be closing completely. Just something to check if nothing else solves your problem.

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landlord2110
Just got the nova II electronic module & what a difference. I put the module where the condenser was. I had to get a longer screw(10x24x5/8") and could only put one screw in the points cover box and a self taper to hold stop wire on the other end. The module is just a little to wide to align both screws that hold the cover plate.

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MrSteele
I just finished pulling my hair out on a later model than your 10, but, after trying everything else, pulled the engine and looked at the mag. The wire to the lead going to the points was broken where it came out of the windings. A new mag, and I have an engine waiting to go to work whenever I turn the key

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rsnik
Roy, I have mounted the Nova II where the condenser was before. I am just saying, as I am far from the brightest crayon in the box down here, but this is how I do it now. Have a look at this pic:


See how the points cover box has a landing under the upper mount hole? If you make up or find a little metal tab with three holes in that fits you can land it on that "ledge" below the top hole on the points cover. Use the bottom hole to secure the tab with the top mounting machine screw for the points cover. Use the top hole on the little metal tab to mount the Nova II. Put pan head terminals on all wires and use the middle hole to connect them all together with a machine screw through the center hole. I now just leave everything abandoned in place and undisturbed inside the points cover box. The Nova II has transistors in it which do not like heat. It gets real hot inside that points box. Points and condensers don't like trapped moisture, hence the sealed points cover box. The Nova II is sealed and relatively weather proof, it just does not like heat. So I install the chip outside the box now. If I get credit for thinking outside the box, I'll take it pi.

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robob
All the above comments are valid how ever the first thing to do is to separate ignition from fuel.If you have good spark & good fuel supply but are still running rich then you have to induce a vacuum. to do this on a small engine is some what difficult ( they don,t use vacumm supply)but you can loosen the carb mounting bolts a little on one side and a little more on the other to acheive this break the seal If the engine runs better , increase in RPM then you have a CARB problem ( sticky needle partial restricted high speed jet etc)

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robob
If the engine is running rich and no adjustment helps the carb could be plugged or a needle stuck or sticky. the carb will dump excessive fuel and the air intake through the throate of the carb will not be suficient to give a leaner mix.There for you have to supply air from another source as there are no vacuum ports on small engines the only way i can see to do this is to loosen the carb bolts and suck air after the carb.As i said loosen one side a little and the other a little more so you can get a blade in and break the gasket seal enough to allow air in if rpm increases you know your dealing with a carb.--------Ps if this doesn't help just retighten the carb flange to reseal.

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