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Bailey

P'max onan question .... UPDATE

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Bailey
620 not charging. Shows 12 volts at battery running or not. Al's article says check the white lead on the rectifier (looking for 14-14.8v). Where the #@#%$*&^ is this rectifier and white wire? I've looked every manual I've got and I can't find anything on the tractor that looks like what's in the manual ..... I'm really not too hip to this electrical stuff ngr2 UPDATE - Tore through the wiring harness, found and fixed some bad connections and sloppy repairs. Bench tested all the major components. Put it all back together and I HAVE A CHARGE. A big thanks to John (midnightpumpkin) and Jim (JP) for taking the time to walk me through a lot of the logic and troubleshooting !!!! Still a little concerned about the regulator. Seeing about 13v across the battery at idle and just over 16v at 2/3 throttle. Seems a little high to me .......

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JP
Look where your right toe is as you're sittng on the tractor. See two holes w/silver (aluminum) in them? That's the heat sink for the Reg & Rec. You'll need to take the drip pan off. Brace yourself if this is the first time. All the nuts/bolts dead animals are going to fall out. (LOL) There's a three wire connection (Regulator) & two wire (Rectifier). Do you have the CCKB Manual?

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Bailey
I've got a pdf, I think it's the CCKB manual. On the other computer. I'll go back and look later. "Drip pan" is the thick slab on the underside of the tunnel? Should I just be checking the AC output before digging into this? Al's article says 2 black wires and 1 red coming from the stator. I see a bundle of 4 wires and can't tell what color any are at the back of the plug .....

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acfarmer
Go to Advance Auto they have a neat little battery/charging tester with 6 lights on it.The bottom 3 will light up if your battery is in good shape if not then the battery may be your problem.The top three lights are Red(charging a little) Yellow (charging some)Green (getting a full Charge)Most older garden won't light the green and many will barely light the yellow.If it lights up the Red on an older garden tractor you're still good to go.I have a 9020 that only lights the red and its been fine and keeps the battery up.

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DMedal
Bailey- As the fellas said, pull the drip pan. He's warning you it is messy, not that it is difficult. This will be easier and more productive than measuring the AC. Check the charging voltage off the regulator first, then the DC voltage out of the rectifier. If neither exceed 12V with engine running I myself would try swapping the rectifier. If you get 14V or more out of the rectifier but nada out of the regulator, replace that. It might be the stator coil but that's a lot more work to get at. And you might get lucky and find a connector off on the regulator or rectifier. Get back to us with what you find. Don

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acfarmer
Another quick easy way to check electrial output is the take off the positive battery cable while the tractor is running if it keeps on runing you got current if it cuts off you have an issue

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Bailey
Got in there last night ...... Still trying to sort it out. Found what I thought might be a bad connection, but didn't change anything. Rectifier tested out OK. Only got 4.4 v on the white out of the rectifier though. Tried to test the AC out of the stator. Somehow I was reading 62 !?!?!. Thought I might have the meter set up wrong but stuck in the wall outlet read 117 (seems reasonable). It was late and I was tired, think I'll look at that again when I'm more alertOO I'll try your other suggestion tonight too, Gary.

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midnightpumpkin
Andy, Where's the pictures??? Does your voltage regulator look like this one? http://www.amazon.com/Lawn-Mower-Part-Regulator-191-2227/dp/B001OK9YRU If so, it has to have a good ground to function. If it is the seperate rectifier and regulator style, you should get 16 volts or so out of the rectifier. Again check for good grounds. Good luck getting it sorted out. John U

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Bailey
I'll get some pics ... it's been dark by the time I get home to mess with it though. They are the separate components. Where does the ground come into play John? The actual rectifier to the mounting plate? or through the wiring harness? or are you referring to where I ground the other probe when testing the output?

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midnightpumpkin
Andy It looks like you have the 20 amp syncro system option 6 in the manual. Al's writeup is referring to the 15A Phelon system, option 5. I am sure wire colors will be different. John U

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midnightpumpkin
quote:
Originally posted by midnightpumpkin
Andy It looks like you have the 20 amp syncro system option 6 in the manual. Al's writeup is referring to the 15A Phelon system, option 5. I am sure wire colors will be different. John U
My appologies to AL. After reading his article carefully, and comparing to my engine with the rectifier and regulator assemblies manufactured by Synchro Corp, the article applies rather it is manufactured by PHELON or Synchro. The Synchro rectifier has 3 wires, 2 black and a white which connect to the engine harness. The black wires are the AC input to the rectifier and the white is the +DC output. Apparently the stator winding is grounded internally to create the return path for the DC output. The same with the regulator assembly, the alumimum plate has to be securely connected to frame ground for the system to work. Note that the red lead AL refers to is on the plug for the regulator. First thing is to verify the resistance measurements AL has provided. John U

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Bailey
Jerked the whole front end of the harness out ...stator to rectifier and regulator, back to the front of the motor, into a 4 prong plug, tie into the battery etc ... After plugging the rectifier back in (on the outside of the tractor) and leaving the regulator completely out of the loop, finally seeing 16-17 at the white out of the rectifier. Oddly, still seeing just over 12v across the battery. Split open part of the harness w/4 prong plug on one side and a wire hanging out the side of the harness. Turns out there are only 3 wires coming into the harness???sm00 Traced the wire on the other side of the plug (opposite the dead end wire) to the light switch??

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midnightpumpkin
quote:
finally seeing 16-17 at the white out of the rectifier.
OK, now what happens if you plug in the regulator, make sure the regulator base is grounded. You should see 13.5 - 14.5 on the white wire now.
quote:
Split open part of the harness w/4 prong plug on one side
One of the wires on the 4 prong should be going up to the amp meter. It sounds like the white wire from the rectifier is not getting connected to the battery. John U

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midnightpumpkin
quote:
Originally posted by Bailey
Still a little concerned about the regulator. Seeing about 13v across the battery at idle and just over 16v at 2/3 throttle. Seems a little high to me .......
Andy, I would re-read the last paragraph of AL's writeup. First thing I would do is run a dedicated temporary wire from the battery (-) terminal to the baseplate of the regulator module and see what happens. If that doesn't bring the voltage back down to the 14.5 range, go over the connections to the red wire very carefully. If it is still running at 16V or so, the regulator is probably not working. John U

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