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srwven

Help, my 7014S won't start

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srwven
I was mowing the other day and started having problems with my 7014S. I adjusted the carb screw near the fuel inlet, helped some, then it died and would not start. It will turn over. I checked for spark, I am getting weak spark when I put the plug's diode against metal, but I cant get the spark to jump the gap between the diode and the metal arm where you check the gap. The plug wire is old, some minor stress cracks but nothing major. Compression is good. I don't know if I am getting fuel, when I took the plug out, only once out of several times did the plug have fuel on it. There is fuel that leaks out of the bottom of the carb now whenever I try to start it. I have since pulled the engine to work on it. My question is, do I just need to rebuild the carb, or could the spark plug wire/magneto need replaced? Thanks, sorry this is so lengthy!

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Les
I am having the same problem with a Briggs. I believe that it may be a partially sheared flywheel key, because this happened to me once before, I had spark but it was too weak to run the engine. This could be the cause only with a Briggs. I was thinking about converting over to Kohler ignition but I am waiting for someone(like Smiling Sam maybe?) to write a procedure.

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jlasater
Check that flywheel key. It's only a $0.50 part, and I've had a new one fix two different riding mowers for me. One of them would run but backfired constantly through the air filter and melted the foam element. New key, and it ran like a new engine.[A href='http://www.wheatfarm.com']http://www.wheatfarm.com[/a]

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dlcentral
If key is sheared torque flywheel up to proper torque or it might shear again.Many posts have been writen about the magnetron conversion, If date code[1st 2 #'s under 'code'] on eng is before '81 I believe the flywheel has to be re-polarized for the Magnetron to work.Briggs does this at the factory so I'm told at no charge? Cust. supplies shipping charges,,

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