Snowblower Auger - Help Please

[PhanDad]

As I mentioned in my "Simplicity Quality" post, I have an issue with the axial position of my new snow blower:

I've never had an issue with auger bearings or auger position before. What sets/holds the axial position of the auger? Currently I would think auger drive sprocket is hitting the chain guard preventing the auger from moving further in that direction. From looking at the parts breakdown, it appears there are 2 screws in each auger bearing sand they are to be torqued to 55-60 in-lbs (with Loctite). Is that all?

[CarlH]

It seems to me that's all that holds it along with the sprocket set screw. I noticed a clearance specified between the drive sprocket and side plate. I wonder if that assumes the outer end of the sprocket hub should be flush with the end of the shaft and positions the auger correctly?

[UCD]

The older style the bearing locks were eccentrics that you turned with a punch on the shaft to tighten then locked with the set screws Those look to be the same. They must not have been rotated tight and set screws tightened. You can see the rust spot where one of the set screws were on the shaft. I had trouble with the drive and sprocket on the chute on the 47" two stage loosing up and not aligning. German torque specs work good Electric Chute Rotator Gear 1. Remove the cover and loosen the three screws (B, Figure 4) securing the electric chute rotator motor. 2. Adjust the motor (C) so that the gear (A) meshes with the discharge chute ring gear and tighten the adjustment screws (B). 3. Reinstall the cover.

[BLT]

That bearing has no locking collar, just the two set screws. I have a have a flange bearing in my hand with the locking collar and the set screw on the eccentric locks on the inner bearing race. In the older parts books, the bearing is illustrated that way. Maybe they wanted to save $.25dz

[CarlH]

The old style bearing is NLA and has been superceded by the new style bearing.

[Chris727]

Might be able to get the old style bearing from a bearing house.

[D-17_Dave]

The old style bearings with the eccentric block are still a common bearing and can be sourced at any number of different places. They also will likely have a hole already in the outer race to allow them to be greased. You can use one bearing flange and get the flange with the zerk fitting and install and you've "upgraded" to the old style with no problems.

[thedaddycat]

Several years back I bought replacement bearings for a blower, made by Fafnir as I recall. I have at least one set around, if I can find it I'll post the part number.

[PhanDad]

Guys, thanks for the info. Sounds like to get back in business for this season, I push the auger back into position (leaving some space between the drive sprocket and casing and then tighten the set screws. I'm hoping the set screws were not tighten at the factory. This spring/summer I'll investigate adding the old style bearings if someone can post the part number. Maynard, I'm aware of the adjustment procedure. This blower chute is different from the other gear tooth chutes I've seen. I believe your blower's chute has two gear tooth plates (one welded to the bottom of the chute, the other loose) that are screwed together and have 3 plastic retainers that hold the chute onto the blower. Mine only has 1 gear tooth ring welded to the chute, the chute extends through the gear tooth ring and has a lip on it exactly like the old style blowers. There is a notch in the lip that allows the chute to pass the hold down clip and fully seat. The motor hits this clip and can not be moved any closer. Your blower doesn't have that clip; that's why it's a design flaw. If I take the motor off again, I'll take a pic to show you.

[Burntime]

Can't you grind a little with a drummel to fit it better? I realize you should not have to but that is the way things are made now a days... Fast and cheap!

[UCD]

This is my blower chute

[BLT]

quote:

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Originally posted by PhanDad
Guys, thanks for the info. This spring/summer I'll investigate adding the old style bearings if someone can post the part number.

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Bill, I believe it is a Fafnir RA100RRB, BCA NPS-100-RRC. The one I have is a Tru-Pitch SA205-16. They are dimensionally the same. The last one I picked up and a farm supply store. The above bearings are sealed and a lubed bearing is also available, but I don't have the number handy. When you push out the old bearing you can get the info from it and then you can get the one with the eccentric lock.

[PhanDad]

Maynard, The parts dwg you posted is what I expected for your chute. Mine is different, he's an assembly dwg from my manual:

As you can see it's different; the chute is basically the old style chute with a gear ring welded on. The hold down clip that interferes with the rotator motor can be seen just below and to the left of the pictured motor rotator gear. Burntime suggested I remove some of the metal from the hold down clip; I'm going to investigate that option, but I can't remove too much metal and weaken the clip because that's the only thing holding the chute from blowing off when snow hits the curve of the chute. I'm also going to look at the rotator motor case and maybe I can "dent" it in for clearance.

[Burntime]

How about egging out or slotting the holes where the motor mounts to bring it in closer? THat would give you some adjustment...

[thedaddycat]

Fafnir RA100RRB + COL AG Sorry the pic is a little fuzzy, tried to get close enough to see the bearing and set screws. This bearing is not ported for a grease fitting.

[PhanDad]

Bob and Kirk, Thanks for the bearing numbers. I'll see what I can find locally and maybe convert the new snowblower back to the original bearing setup come spring.