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ehertzfeld

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Ok here is my problem. Some of you have know my 3318 twin. I have been having problems with the charging system for a few years. It has a Brigg twin 18hp. Last winter I was using it with my 42 blower, with electric clutch. electric spout turner, and electric lift. What I figured out was, the alternator would not keep up with all that draw. So, this year, I returned it to manual lift. After a few storms, I was still having problems. After using it for a few hours, I would shut down, to run into the little boy's room, and it would not start with out jumping it. So, I removed the electric spout turner. Well, after this last storm, same thing. So I finally broke down, and took out the meter. Well with the engine running, I can see the volts going up, but as soon as I hit that switch for the PTO, the volts drop to 11 volts with in a minute. looks like it's drawing more than the alt can produce. Well, after consulting my manual, it looks like the alt is only a 3amp on the dc side.:(! So my thought is, use the 3 amp ac side. Now, how do I go about this? Is it possible?? What regulator do I need?? I have got to get this thing going before the next storm! I got two foot wall on both side of my driveway, and now way I can plow! I need to move south!!!!!!!
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Elon, the DC side of the stator hooks only to the battery. The AC side uses no regulator or diode. It is ment to run just the lights. The bad thing is, it only produces 12-14volts AC at full throttle. So, if you throttle down the lights dim. Plus, the more lights you add the dimmer they get faster when slowing the engine down. The electric clutch can draw as much as near 15 amps. The 3 amp alt. circuits on these engines was designed to draw off as little needed HP as possible and run a lot with only the occasional startup as a drain. They don't work well for any aux. load. I think the flywheel is the same between the variations of alt's used so if you swap out the stator and add the retifior assembly you should get a full 15 amp charging circuit. Hope this helps. Dave
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Thanks Dave. That's what I was afraid of. hmmmmmm, may just bolt a voltage gauge in the cab, and watch the voltage for now. Gonna have to figure things out before next winter.
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Here's the book http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/alternator_replacement.pdf . It's a big file and I think you will also need a magneto with more magnets on it. I would go to a bone yard and pick up a used 12V 40 amp belt driven alternator and mount it some where. The are self regulated, need the ignition source for a field and about the size of a large soft ball. I have two.
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Elon, Why not get the PTO arm from a 7100 tractor and a single pulley hitch and drive the blower from the mid PTO? Should be easier than pulling the engine and pulling off the flywheel. Both changes are on the outside. You could also just weld a tang on the original PTO to move the idler and also modify your blower hitch. A little time, a little drilling and welding and you are in business.
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I'm not sure if you have the room for a belt driven alt. like mentioned above. If you do, drive it off the blower fan. If not then you might get by for now and drive it off the mid-pto and hang it under the tractor for now. Just a quick fix till you swap the hitch or fix the charging problem.
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Rod, if you know were one of those hitches are, let me know. I've been thinking of trying to fab one up. Problem is, we got another storm heading our way mid week. Need to come up with something quick. Spent about an hour tonight pulling 2 ft of snow off my roof. Got about 1/4 of it done. Guess what I'm doing tomorrow??? LOL Replaced my shingles last fall, and was informed that my 2x4 constructed ranch only has 1/2 inch ply on the roof! I'm a bit nervous! Plus my gutters look like a luge track! Not fun!!! I just need this thing to get me though the rest of the winter. Thanks for all the help and input. Reminds me why this club is so great!
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Elon, keep a battery charger on it, so when you want to blow battery will be at it's best. Maybe fit the hole with a bigger battery, just some thoughts.
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Elon, for your gutters, get calcium chloride pellets and then some cheap women's knee hi nylons. Fill the nylons with pellets until you get about an 18" 'sausage" and tie it off. Then take that sausage and lay it crosswise on your gutter and in a short time time the pellets will cut a channel in the ice to let the water drain over the gutter rather then back it up and cause ice damming. This take from a 'pro' where ice damming is a common winter occurrence. Four years ago with had a very early wet snow and then freezing and then melting, we all got caught, me with dripping in my bay window. It took me for about 30 lbs of pellets but no more ice damming. It doesn't hurt asphalt shingles or aluminum gutters either.
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