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steve-wis

safety interlock question -pics added

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steve-wis
This is what my operators manual says as far as the safety interlock system goes on the 1993 Regent 12: Features & Controls SAFETY INTERLOCK SYSTEM Your tractor is equipped with a seat switch safety system that will automatically shut the engine off when the operator leaves the seat with the PTO engaged or the transmission lever in gear. The tractor engine will continue to run when the operator leaves the seat if the PTO is disengaged, the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake engaged. Figure 2. Safety 10 Interlock System See figure 2. Check the seat switch (A) every fall and spring with the following three tests. Make sure the wiring harness (B) is securely plugged into the switch. Test 1 -Engine should NOT crank if: A. seat is not occupied or B. transmission lever is out of neutral or C.PTO switch is engaged or D. clutch/brake pedal is not depressed. Test 2 -Engine should crank if: A. seat is occupied and transmission lever is in neutral. B. PTO is disengaged and clutch/brake pedal is depressed.Test 3 -Engine should shut off if: A. ooerator rises off seat with transmission lever I +I+ in gear. 8. operator rises off seat with PTO engaged. C. operator rises off seat without clutch/brake pedal depressed.AWARNING If the tractor does not pass the test, do not operate tractor. See your authorized dealer. Under no circumstance should you attempt to defeat the purpose of the safety system. However, in the parts manual, there is a switch for the seat, the hydro lever, and the pto lever, but nothing for the clutch/brake. I can't find a switch on the clutch/brake lever or linkage either. So is the clutch/brake tied into the electrical safety system somehow or not? Tomorrow I will be trying to find the bad switch that is screwing up this tractor, and it would be nice to know where they all are. Anyone have any info or advice? Thanks Steve

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D-17_Dave
I can't say for sure where it is located since I have not seen the tractor or studied the parts manual. It is common though for Simplicity to put these switchs near or on the linkage at the transmision. I'd give that a look.

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BLT
Steve much to my dismay the operators book was written for both the manual and hydro transmission and the safety start instructions for the manual only. The parts book shows only the hydro switch and and the PTO switch, no clutch switch, both of them the same part number. I would use the function of the hydro switch in neutral as being the same as the clutch pedal being depressed. You can download load the parts book to get an idea where to find it. Movement of the hydro handle would in effect be the same as releasing the clutch pedal.

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RedbarnRick
On those tractors the switch for the clutch pedal is underneath and is actuated with a lever off the linkage, it looks just like the seat switch. You can jumper all the switches to see if they are the culprit, 2 in. of wire with 2 spade terminals. All the problems I've had with the interlocks have been right at the module in the dash, the grey wire was loose on several, rarely corrosion it's usually the terminal working loose from the plug end.

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steve-wis












Checked out the safety interlock switches, all are working properly. I guess now I am wondering if the module is bad. Rick, there is no module under the dash, but there is this block next to the starter solinoid that is called a safety interlock module in the parts book, shown in my pics above. Maybe this is the problem? If I unhook the ground wire in pic above, it starts and runs well. It is always grounding when hooked up, whether switch is on or off. The wire goes to the ignition switch where it joins another wire, and the other wire goes back to the connector and module back next to the solinoid. Also, there is a spade on the new switch that is covered in a plastic cover, you can see it in the pics. Is this supposed to be hooked up at all? There is no provision for it on the main plug, as you can see. I didn't remove the original so am a bit at a loss here. Any advice with this new info? Thanks for everyone's imput and help! Steve

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BLT
Disconnect the seat switch and go thru the motions. That second wire you were concerned about runs to the seat switch and maybe if it is mal-functioning it with show a ground and not let the engine run. Eliminating the wire at the engine also takes out the function of the seat switch.

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steve-wis
Bob, Had the seat switch unhooked and the two wires hooked together, eliminating the switch, and had the same result. Are you saying to unhook the seat switch and not hook the two wires together? Steve

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BLT
quote:
Originally posted by steve-wis
Bob, Had the seat switch unhooked and the two wires hooked together, eliminating the switch, and had the same result. Are you saying to unhook the seat switch and not hook the two wires together? Steve
Steve yes, I looked at wire diagram again and then my light bulb turned on. Once it is running you should be able to run and momentarily stop the engine by sliding the jumper wire in and out of the connector. That should make your key switch function normally with the wire out.

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steve-wis
Not sure I understand what you are saying, sorry to be so slow with this. So I should unhook the ground wire to the magneto, start the engine, then momentarily hook the ground wire to kill the engine? I don't have any jumper wires at the safety switches now, they are all hooked up as they should be. Steve

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RedbarnRick
Steve, I guess I was thinking about later models than this one, the newer ones have the interlock is in the dash, does the interlock module unplug from its position? Check the contacts, if not doesn't unplug unbolt it and with everything hooked up normal do you feel contacts being made in the modulewhen you turn the key switch, if you don't feel anything put a grounded test probe into the back of the plug at each wire location, write down what lights up and what doesn't when you turn the switch, do the same for the key switch then check it against the functions you listed at the start of the topic. With a test probe you should be able to determine where the problem is, if you don't find it with the probe grounded repeat the test with the probe @ 12 volts.

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RedbarnRick
Steve, this looked so much like the 6500 series tractor that I had,that I looked at the wiring drawing in its parts manual,sure enough pretty similar, you should have three safety switches 1. seat 2. pto 3. neutral/start There is a linkage from the brake/clutch that combines with a linkage at the nuetral/start switch which should be behind the shifter, if the clutch is out of adjustment it won't engage this switch even if it is in nuetral, find that switch and jumper it to see if it's an adjustment, if it works in nuetral with it jumped the linkage is the problem. Hope this doesn't cofuse you instead of helping you.

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steve-wis
Rick, Don't think I have that switch, this is a hydro model. I followed the clutch/brake linkage all the way back to hydro and found no wires or switch, just the switch on the forward/reverse lever. This is the hydro with the forward/reverse lever between your legs, not on the dash by the steering wheel. I will check out the module when I get back to working on the tractor. Thanks for the info. Steve

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RedbarnRick
That is the neutral/start switch that I spoke of, the linkage you followed from the clutch to this switch should operate this switch with the pedal down. If this switch is not effected by moving the clutch pedal that may be your problem, the manual will explain how to adjust the linkage. Go thru test one with all the switches open, in other words no operator in the seat, the clutch not depressed the pto engaged, and the shift lever moved from the neutral position, the engine should not start.Now one by one put jumpers on each switch and see if it will start. If it wont start with jumpers on all three you have a bad interlock, if it does start you have an adjustment needed at the clutch linkage.

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steve-wis
Rick, Switch is not affected by the clutch brake pedal at all. I have checked all three of the safety switches, they are all working as they should. I am going to buy a new interlock module tomorrow and install it, I am pretty sure that is the problem. The only other thing that could cause the problem would be that wire shorting out somewhere, but it doesn't check as shorted, and I don't see any place where it looks worn thru at all. Hopefully the interlock will do it, that thing is just under $40. Steve

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