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mroman59

38" tiller and 7117H tractor, questions?

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mroman59
I picked up a tiller for my 7117 several years ago and used it one summer and cable broke. Now that I read the posts and link to document that RayS posted in topic "Rear Lift for 7100 question" I see that the 38" tiller hooks up different than all others. I hooked mine up the wrong way, i.e. over the pulley and onto the front of the lift lever under the tractor. It worked find. I don't know if that was the cause of the cable breaking, because I see that I am missing some parts also. Rays posted a photo in the discussion and a link to a diagram. These two don't match exactly. Missing parts: Belt Stop and Cable Retainer. Questions: 1. What does the belt stop do? 2. It appears the cable retainer is located under neath the tractor, I don't even see a place to fasten it if I had one? 3. Why does the 38" hook up backwards, is there a way to make it work like the others? I would prefer the lever motion for raising the tiller up and down as the others. 4. The photo showing the 3 point hitch and lift lever bracket connection looks different than mine. Is the larger hole on the hitch the left hand side or the right? 5. Are there two different set collars (R & T) , with different part numbers? 6. In figure 3, the cable guard looks like it is beside the cable as opposed to going over the top of the pulley to hold it onto the pulley. When I use the hole in the cable guard to mount it, the top of the guard is higher than the pulley, therefore, I assumed that it was to go over top. However the instructions say that the pulley and cable guard are not to be used on the 38" tiller anyways (instruction 7). Any thoughts? see http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=jgEBGP_eqQ0tG5EPa7mRgtLvBCd6 Thanks, MR

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mroman59
Also, the instructions say to use an electric lift instead of the cable lift for the 38" tiller, why? Before I get to excited, the 38" tiller is the measurement from the end to end of the cover and not the tines? Thanks, MR

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timflury
I'll take question #1. The belt stop serves just what it is named for. Even though it is just a funny bent piece of 3/16" rod, it is adjusted so when the tension on the belt is released, the stop just touches the belt and it is moved slightly away from the pulley. In regards to your tiller, if the belt stop is missing, when you disengage the pto, the tines will still turn albeit slowly and with a lot of belt slippage.

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mroman59
Ok, I see the belt stop is located underneath the tractor frame, I was looking at the diagram of parts from the link I posted and it looked like the lift cable went underneath the belt stop before attaching to the hitch. My bad. Ill go back and look under the tractor again and see if I have one. Thanks, MR

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BLT
quote:
Originally posted by mroman59
see ttp://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=jgEBGP_eqQ0tG5EPa7mRgtLvBCd6 Thanks, MR
It works better listing the whole wesite;) http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=jgEBGP_eqQ0tG5EPa7mRgtLvBCd6

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mroman59
yes, that is how i hooked it up the first time i installed it, but i was thinking i had a 38" tiller and would have to hook in back, but i like the other method for all other tillers and the lifting lever motion action better. I think I got everything figure out now, ie. of all my questions. The collars on the lift bracket are two different ones at partstree.com. one is $33 and the other about $8. I made my own lift bracket following the instructions in the Do It Your Self section. I just need the $33 collar, but I am not paying that much. I used a collar I had laying around that was not quite workable, but I think I have one that will work better after sifting through my junk drawers.

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mroman59
Does anyone have any photos of their 36 or 38 inch tiller? I will take photo of my tiller and post here, if I am allowed. I think you have to be a paid member to do that. Correct me if I am wrong. MR

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UCD
The 38"HD tiller weighs 350-400lbs The tines are driven on the right side instead of in the middle therefor no center dead spot tilling. The manual says to use an electric or hydraulic lift not a manual lift because of the weight. all 7100 series are cable lifts. The weight is also the reason for the alternate cable routing to get a mechanical advantage on the lift. It can be lifted with the conventional routing and a manual lift if you want to become a weight lifter. Smilinsam's 38"HD tiller


38"HD on my HB-116 (built by SmilinSam) using conventional cable hookup and hydraulic lift.




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mroman59
Thanks guys for the photos. Now I know for sure I have the 36" tiller. Another question. I see by the photos and manual diagrams that I had the belt routed properly, however when I used my tiller I noticed that the lower portion of the belt was rubbing on top of the the hydraulic oil filter and taking off the paint on the filter. Has anyone else experienced this problem? when I purchased the tiller, the seller gave me the belt along with the Pulley Assembly, so I assumed that it is the correct belt. The parts diagram does not give the dimensions of the belt. thanks, MR

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RayS




You need the rear PTO drive kit. It will keep the belt from rubbing the filter. You will have to order the parts seperately. They are not sold as a kit anymore as far as I know. You need the pulley and bracket. Below is the installation instructions. http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=jgEBGP_eqQ1tG6EPa7mRgtLvBCd6

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