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Rich

Repower 6118 Options?

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Rich
I have a 6118 with the original B&S 18hp Twin. Seized due to no oil. Don't ask. Anyway, I am looking to re-power. B&S claims no drop-in replacement available. Has anyone done a re-power on a Simplicity 6118? I'm looking at a Kohler SV710, 20hp V-twin. Looks like it will fit, but I'm seeing conflicting info on shaft diameter, and I don't have any muffler envelope dimensions or muffler mounting details. The B&S Intek models may fit as well. Anyone have opinions on these engines in general or specific? My need is immediate. The snow is piling up fast....

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RayS
Have you looked in the Briggs replacement guide? What is the model number of your tractor? Small engine Warehouse may have a NOS engine for your tractor as well. http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engines/support/frequently-asked-questions/~/media/4AA18B46670E468FAA0D40712D546007.ashx http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/

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Rich
quote:
Originally posted by RayS
Have you looked in the Briggs replacement guide? What is the model number of your tractor? Small engine Warehouse may have a NOS engine for your tractor as well. http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engines/support/frequently-asked-questions/~/media/4AA18B46670E468FAA0D40712D546007.ashx http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/
Yes I checked the Small Engine Warehouse as well as with a B&S tech rep- both claimed that there was no drop-in replacement. The engine is a 421707 18hp twin vertical that was last manufactured about mid-80's (my estimate). Your link to B&S above seems broken.

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jasper
There is no direct replacement for that engine I just checked. I think as far as bolt on goes many engines will fit the bolt pattern but as for muffler, crank diam. wiring and charging system......good luck! I would think you would be better off finding another 40-46 cubic inch that is the same, maybe from Craiglist, and bolting it back on!

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Al
Hi, We repowered several of the 5000, 6000 series units with an 18 Vangard. We have lost the source for the muffler and have abandoned these units because can,t do the exhaust. I would watch for an old Dynamark, Murray etc and take the engine out of it. Al Eden

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dhardin
I re powered my 6118, it had a motor fire form the previous owner. I fond a newer 20hp Briggs apposed.Bolted right in, the drive slip pulley was a snap. The only small hassle was the exhost. I think the donner 20hp was on a rather nice Troy Built. What I had to do was leave the exhaust pips on the motor and cut about 1 1/2 off the ends of each pipe. Then as i position the motor over its holes slide the muffler on the exhaust pips. Its so close to not fitting, there are no bolts holding the muffler on the tractor. Its forced on and wedged in the front lower frame with just a little tilt to it. The piped are just about 1" to short at the horizontal line right off the motor. If I could have cut the pipes and added a 1" peace it would have been much better. As it is now it don't look that bad and has been working for several years. No problems

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mroman59
Rich, I have the same problem. I wanted to REPOWER my 6216 but no replacement engines available. I see a lot of the same used B&S engines for sale on craigslist etc., but I didn't want to go that route because those engines probably have many hours on them. I think there are rebuild kits still available for them. In your case, since the engine seized up you may wish to pick up a running used one and use your engine for spare parts. A newer B&S engine on the market will fit the mounting holes in the frame and the shaft which is most likely 1" diameter x 3 (and some odd inches) long will match, however when you go to install it, most likely you will have a problem with the exhaust hitting the frame. A longer shaft engine, say 4 5/16" long will work because you can use longer mounting bolts and set the engine on something like sq. metal tubing to raise it enough so the muffler will fit. You will have to cut and drill holes through the metal tubing for your mounting bolts. Once that is done you still have one more problem. The longer 4 5/16" shafts are usually 1 1/8" diameter (not sure, worth checking out) and therefore you will have to try to find a double pulley with a hole that will accommodate the bigger diameter, which is most likely impossible. So the next best thing is to take the pulley to a machine shop and see if they will bore it out another 1/8" to slide over the shaft. This will change the Simplicity specifications though. If you are willing to do this you can use any new B&S engine. If you look at the new B&S engines with the same approximate HP and shaft dimensions, and you can be sure that the muffler will not hit the frame, then you are all set. Most new engines don't come with the muffler and you have to purchase separate, so it will be hard to tell for sure until you purchase it. My dealer sometimes has some floor model engines out and it is possible that you could take your old engine off first and put it on a trailer and take it to some shops. Have them set it on the engine and see if the muffler hits the frame. I put a 26HP B&S engine on mine, because someone gave it to me. The muffler hit the frame. Since this engine had a 1 1/8" diameter and 4 5/16" shaft, it was able to work. I used sq. metal framing to raise it. Not sure, but it was probably 1" tubing. Then I took the pulley and had the machine shop bore it out. My problem is that the engine was smoking and had loss of power (which he claims was not doing when given), so I took it off for now and I plan to inspect the valves, rings and pistons. I put the old engine back on the 6216 for now, since it still runs, but now I am contemplating selling my 6216. So I may just rebuild the 26 HP and sell it or save it for another tractor. Mike

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Rich
quote:
Originally posted by mroman59
Rich, I have the same problem. Mike
Thanks for the info Mike. I've heard about this same solution of using a longer shaft and spacers under the engine so that a muffler could fit. The change in shaft diameter would be a real pain, but maybe that is not as difficult as it seems. I am having trouble getting muffler info for any engine. I wonder if a custom muffler shop could bend some small pipes and weld up a custom muffler for a reasonable price?

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dhardin
I give it a try to get some pics this afternoon but no luck. You see the drifts was just to deep. A few close up pics would show a lot how i squeezed in the muffler.


Here is the old original 16hp muffler. It wold have worked but the governor and throttle linkage was in the way of this bolting right in. The original muffler that was on the 20hp Briggs worked. The frame on the Simplicity was very similar to the Troy Built. I'm afraid the front PTO drive belt for a blower my be a problem with this set up. The muffler on the 20hp drops lower in the frame than the original. Just not sure.


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Zach
The old craftsman cube tractors are a good source for opposed twin 16 or 18 horse motors. I put one in my simplicity 6211. they blot right in and i used the same muffler out of the craftsman. wiring was the same too.

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ezliving4ume
these engine's are all over the place! I've got a 16hp that needs rebuilt but there's nothing wrong with it. even runs. look on craigs list in your area.Or dharden looks like a nice one.

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Rich
I have found a replacement engine that I am fairly sure will work out. It is a B&S 35777A-0113 20hp Vanguard Twin. It has the same bolt pattern and shaft size/characteristics as my original B&S 18hp I/C Opposed Twin 421707. The envelope dimensions of this new engine for height and width are smaller than my original, and the length was close to my original. The shaft C-L to the crankcase was 1.25" more and the shaft C-L to the air cleaner was 3/8" more. In both cases I had plenty of clearance to fit under the hood of my 6118 tractor. One of the driving criteria for this engine selection was the exhaust manifold and muffler model BS-Muffler-807969. This manifold connects to the two exhaust ports on the cylinders and brings the exhaust to the side of the engine. The manifold location is not below the mounting surface of this vertical shaft engine. On my tractor the exhaust will now stick out on one side and I may need to fabricate a a shield to prevent damage if it is hit, but this exhaust setup was the only one I could find that did not require raising up the engine and getting a longer shaft. And actually I couldn't find a combination of a longer shaft and exhaust that would fit anyway. I will post again after I have completed the installation. Thanks to everyone who offered help and advice.

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sbull78
i have repowered 2 6216's...the first one i took a briggs ic 18horse out of a yardmachines junker and it bolted right in..i had to heat and bend the exhaust pipes into a muffler i bought on ebay that was square..i placed the muffler in the front frame gap so the exhaust would exit down and out...i gave 50bux for the motor along with the rest of the junk that was around it....i also repowered one with a briggs ic diamond motor that was a 17.5 i think..same installation i believe...these motors are everywhere!!!i looked at a new motor at first but for the heck of it i checked out some used ones here and there...the diamond motor briggs was really nice and was a pressuized motor with the oil filter..i gave 150 for it...not to bad i'd say!!!

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Chuck_Woolery
Same here, I repowered my 6211 with a 12.5 (actually a 16HP with different stickers) briggs flat twin. Bolted right in with no problems. Only paid $.99 for the motor (plus shipping) and it works just fine. Those flat twin briggs engines are everywhere as they were used in darn near every tractor in the 80's. Keep in mind too that Simplicity put a v-twin Vanguard into the 6500's (similar frame).

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Rich
OK, the re-power project is now finished. I installed the B&S Vanguard 20hp V-twin that I mentioned in a posting above. The muffler I used was a B&S 807969 but I think that a B&S 29 would probably fit better. I didn't find the "29" until after I bought the 807969. I had to cut the support bracket off the muffler, re-bend it, and re-weld it back on so that the muffler would exhaust to the side of the engine instead of toward the front. I ended up cutting part of the side of the hood on the 6118 tractor so that the muffler would clear. I wish I had picture posting privileges on this site so I could post some of the pictures in hopes that they would help someone else. However, if anyone is interested I think you can send me an email through this site and I will send the pictures and details of the entire project.

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