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cost to rebuild Briggs 16 single


gjh

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I got a 16hp Briggs cast iron from a neighbor, He got it off an older Simplicity machine. It was missing the carb and he took the coil off, never tried to run it, but it does turn over by hand; feels like it has some compression. I am thinking about rebuilding it for mt T12, I am pretty sure it's the same block. I will have to use the flywheel, carb and coil from my machine. I would really like a little more HP, plus mine is the orig '74 motor. Assuming the 16 needs rings and bearing and maybe a valve job what would the typ. cost to have a shop do the machine work and me assemble? I assume the parts are still available? Do you think I can run a compression test by spinning it over with a rope start; just to see where I'm starting? Maybe it doesn't even need a rebuild. Thanks
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I haven't done any Briggs' yet, but the local machine shop charged something like $200 - $250 to bore cylinder 10 over, crank 10 under, and valve job on the Kohler K341 for my 'green tractor'. That was with me tearing it totally down and them only doing machine work & cleaning block (I did leave valves in block b/c I don't have a compressor for flat-head engines, but I don't think they charged me to take them out & put em back in). I also sent the head to Brian Miller in MO with the great site on Garden tractor pulling ([url]http://www.gardentractorpullingtips.com/index.htm[/url]) to shave it on a vertical lathe to raise compression, which I think was a deal @ $25 including return shipping!
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My NAPA dealer will bore blocks. I am sure that if you have one they are probably capable of doing so as well. I am not sure what they charge.
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Prices will vary greatly from shop to shop. Lots of variables here. There is no replaceable rod bearing in these engines. It would be very easy to sink a few hundred into that engine, maybe more. My mechanic does valve jobs for $25 but will only do machine work on briggs. He won't assemble them. They are fairly easy to assemble if you can find the time and have some basic tools such as a ring expander and ring compressor. Most briggs I've had ended up needing to be bored oversized. Pop the head off and see what the bore size is. .010 and .030 rings and pistons are NLA through briggs and nobody is making the .030 anymore, not even aftermarket.
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here is a .020 over piston http://desc.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=briggs+390366&_sacat=159912&_sop=10&_odkw=briggs+390365&_osacat=159912&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=1 You can buy new through Jacks for $60.00
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I am doing just such a rebuild now and depending what the motor needs the cost can get up around $500 to really do everything right. I would urge you to simply remove the cylinder head and closely inspect the cylinder and valves as these will be good indicators of wear on the engine. Measure the bore to see if it needs to be bored and take note of the ridge at the top of the cylinder, Briggs recomends that the clylinder be rebored at .003 oversized from stock but you can cheat this alittle look at the valves to see how much they are mushroomed and check out how much carbon is in the exhaust port and if its shiny or dull, shiny carbon can be an indicator that the engine was burning oil. really you can tell alot about the condition of the engine for the cost of a head gasket. In a best case scenario you take the head off to see a .010 or .020 stamped on the piston top after you clean off the carbon and you know its already been rebuilt, that makes you feel good.
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One thing I have seen on 16 Briggs is the top ring will break. If you have the engine out and plan on pulling the head off, for 4 more bolts in the pan and 2 rod bolts you can inspect the rings properly. Ain't gonna hurt to scuff the cyl. a dab and re-ring it anyway if it has any real hrs on it.
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