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mike_sdak

Briggs Ignition Problems

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mike_sdak
Hello. I don't seem to be getting a spark with my 16 HP briggs, transplanted into my 917H. I have done the following items: 1. Points: checked gap, .020. They are closing when I rotate engine by hand. Checked for continuity from points to (-) side of coil when points closed = OK. Lightly sanded points with 400 grit paper. 2. Condenser: Removed from circuit when cranking. No change (should spark without condensor, no?) 3. Coil - Checked for voltage on (+) side with key on: has 12 volts. Checked with DMM per this forum's tech tips. OK. Also swapped with coil from running engine. No change. 4. Plug - new plug. New plug wire. Checked continuity on plug wire - 3 Ohms or so resistance. Plug wire was recently used on running engine, with coil mentioned in no. 3 above. Also tried checking spark with a different plug, grounded to the head while cranking. No spark. 5. I also manually rotated the engine with key on. (I made sure points closed, then rotated to open gap - no spark in test plug. I have attached my modified wiring diagram. The wiring was done with guidance from PhanDad and others (thanks a bunch). I think it is OK, but I am an amateur.... Thoughts???


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perry
bypass everything and put constant power on the coil and run other wire down to the points. if original coil is still under the houseing make sure all wires are disconected to it. pull the spark plug and lay it against a clean head bolt . crank the engine and check for spark. if nothing then re-adjust points. also try adjusting the point with a closer gap and see if it sparks. make sure points are clean and then clean them again, and again if needed. make sure the coil/plug wire and all wires/connections are good. check the end where it plugs into the spark plug.

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HubbardRA
Check the "I" terminal of the ignition switch to make sure there is power to the coil when the switch is in the start position. I had one switch which, for some reason had power in the "ON" position, but would disconnect the "I" terminal when the switch was turned to the start position. I now always take a meter and check out all the terminals in all positions on my switches before I install one. I have found at least 3 different configurations that will all plug into the same connector. They didn't all come from Simplicity tractors, but were in my parts stash with the others.sm00

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msiebern
quote:
Originally posted by yukon
so if you go with a external coil you should cut the wires to the old coil on the flywheel cause im about to do that on a 3210v with no spark anyone have a wiring diagram on that.:D
You can just remove the wires at the points area that come from under the motor tin and tape them off and tuck them away. If you haven't seen this, here is a good read on the change to 12v coil. [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/do_it/magneto_to_coil.htm[/url] There was also a good wiring diagram for the B110 & B112 that I believe Maynard posted some time ago that should be equivalent to the 3200 Simplicity series.


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mike_sdak
Thanks for all of the input. I did as Perry suggested, and hooked a separate wire from the battery to the coil, and then cranked. Spark. Prior to doing the bypass, I checked the voltage at the (+) side of the coil during cranking = 8 volts plus or minus. I definitely have a dirty contact somewhere. The first two suspects are the key switch and the engine connector (half of the old packard connector connected to two spade terminals). I'll give it a whirl....

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mike_sdak
I ran a wire from the unused "L" terminal on the voltage regulator to the (+) terminal on the coil - and it started for me. Woo-hoo! Nothing quite like the bark of an old briggs thru a pepper-pot. Anyone see a problem with using the "L" terminal in this way?

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BLT
There were some tractors that had an electrical warning light on the instrument panel. When tractor was not running light was on and running off and a malfunction also would illuminate it. I would suggest splitting the Packard two wire connector and see if you have power at that point.. Also clean the connection points off at the key switch. They have been known to get dirty. P/S I have a regulator in my pile of 'stuff' and labeled 'L' for lights. Don't have a clue to how that terminal functions.

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