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Allis_HB112

Finished My Steering Rebuild

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Allis_HB112
I finally got the bugs out og my HB-112 steering rebuild. My problem was everything was smooth when straight, but at full turn left or right, it got tight. The problem was in the drag link. Here's the completed axle assembly: [IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff261/rocknss04/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB112/DSCF2094.jpg[/IMG] If it moves, it now has either a Oilite bronze bearing, or needle roller bearings at the pressure points. [IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff261/rocknss04/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB112/DSCF2092.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff261/rocknss04/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB112/DSCF2091.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff261/rocknss04/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB112/DSCF2088.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff261/rocknss04/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB112/DSCF2089.jpg[/IMG] Here's where I cut 2 1/2" out of the tie rod to be able to use standard 1/2-20 ball joint ends. $12 vs $42. THAT'S why X 2! [IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff261/rocknss04/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB112/DSCF2095.jpg[/IMG] Here was the bind I had. Note the angle of the washer under the head of the shoulder bolt: [IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff261/rocknss04/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB112/DSCF2087.jpg[/IMG] I used my Dremel grinder and this carbide burr: [IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff261/rocknss04/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB112/DSCF2081.jpg[/IMG] To grind lightly here: [IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff261/rocknss04/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB112/DSCF2079.jpg[/IMG] and here: [IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff261/rocknss04/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB112/DSCF2077.jpg[/IMG] with the other end being ground opposite of this one of course. I probably took about .005" at the most, at the outer edge, and tried to stay away from the center, for full contact there It all bolts together with this: [IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff261/rocknss04/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB112/DSCF2083.jpg[/IMG] Note in the pic above, the large washer is a 3/8 washer drilled out to 1/2". A 1/2" washer was too thick, and that added to the binding. And of course the thrust roller bearing upgrade for the spindles. Note the grease oozing from the edges. The dimples in the top washer are a MUST DO for that to happen. [IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff261/rocknss04/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB112/DSCF2089.jpg[/IMG] And last but certainly not least, the steering box rebuild. Note the grease fitting in the casting for the roller bearings: [IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff261/rocknss04/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB112/DSCF2097.jpg[/IMG] And of course, my new eccentric pin rebuild kit was added. Note the hex in the top of the eccentric pin vs the old slotted head (worthless). That's the only thing visually different from the stock pin. [IMG]http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff261/rocknss04/Allis%20Chalmers%20HB112/DSCF2098.jpg[/IMG] I TRIED to keep this as stock appearing as possible. I believe I have eliminated every possible area of slop, and improved every area, and making it easier to rebuild for the next generation owner. Everything was off the shelf bearings or bolts. I'm anxious to get it together and try her out! COME ON WARM WEATHER! I still have some painting to finish up before it all goes back together.

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PGL
If you continue making improvements like that back through the rest of the tractor, you'll have one that should still be working say 100 years from now. After all, even with its design flaws and sloppy steering, it has lasted 40+ years already. Looking great.

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Allis_HB112
Thanks guys. She had close to 1/4 turn of slop in her when I got it, and the rear angle iron "wishbone" axle support wasn't even ON the poor girl! I ALSO failed to say, nor take pictures of, the new spindle bearings, stock Simplicity items because of the bastard bore size in the axle itself. The spindles themselves had some pretty good wear on them, so I bought an extra set of bushings, (8) total bronze bushings, double stacked, which puts the bearing surface on virgin material. Not an ideal setup, but with the roller thrust bearings under it, HOPEFULLY, this will provide satisfactory performance. Somewhere down the road, I'll be looking for a nice set of spindles

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MikeES
When I rebuilt my HB212 the other area of slop was the square/rectangle of the half moon rack to the steering arm shaft. It looked slightly like an hour glass. I welded in the corners and filed it so it fit tight. Wayne, did you have a good fit there? As I have seen several with the problem I had.

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Brettw
Why couldn't one use ball joints in the drag link? Wouldn't that tighten everything up, allow for fine adjustment, and be smoother overall? I know that is how the Sunstar is set up. I have been thinking about doing this to my 7118 ever since working on the Sunstar. Is there a reason it would not work on the Sovereigns?

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huffy
quote:
Originally posted by Talntedmrgreen
Wayne hasn't posted in quite some time...not sure if he's still peekin in or not.
Last I heard he'd sold all his Allis/Simplicity tractors and bought a new JD. So, I doubt he pops in here very much anymore, if at all.

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