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RUMBLEFISH

B212 spark or lack of

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RUMBLEFISH
I am in the process of putting back together a B212 that ran when I got it. Electrical problems are my really week point. Anyways when I did my Big Ten over it fired right up but not this one. Zero spark and also in this pic its hard to see but I do have a wire coming out from the condenser or points to that white wire while another one runs to the magneto. I had just copied what was on my Big Ten. Is that right or am I missing something. I does crank over fine so at least that's good. Any advice is appreciated. [IMG]http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/5269/electrical005.jpg[/IMG]

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RedbarnRick
The white wire is the kill wire, it appears correct, if the black wire is bare or cracked where it goes under the cover it will ground out the ignition. I find most times with everything looking right and no spark it's the condenser, for 3 bucks get a new one.

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RUMBLEFISH
Well I cleaned and re cleaned the points and tried a spark plug out of my Big Ten that I know is good. Then I took all the wires off other then the black one that runs into the cover and ran a wire from the pos on battery to the condenser points hook up that I had read about. I fired it up still no spark but the points sure did along with the wire. I don't want to destroy my poor engine due to my lack of skill in electrical. Could it be a bad ground? If I go with the external 12 volt like this maybe my problems would go away.http://www.simpletractors.com/do_it/magneto_to_coil.htm I really don't want to pull the engine out and take it apart again if the above magneto set up would do the trick. Any suggestions?

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JimDk
You are probably at the point of needing to convert to 12 volt. I'm sure that you let all the factory smoke out of your mag coil.C There is no way of putting smoke back in the mag coil, so without pulling the engine and replacing the mag coil, you will need to do the conversion. Never, never apply battery voltage to a magneto system.

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MrSteele
Well, you killed the mag with the battery connection, so that one will likely never fire, no matter what you try. If the engine is still out, I would purchase another coil. They are available for either a points/condenser setup, or, with magnetron (no points) ignition from your favorite parts store. Either will work, but, with the points/condenser setup, you still have to worry at some time on the future about replacing the points or condenser. I like my engines to look like they did when they were sold, so I would replace the mag. If you use the magnetron ignition, you need not worry about the points or condenser.

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Al
Hi. If you just put it together, check the flywheel key. If the flywheel isn't torqued correctly or has foreign material on the tapered surface, the key can shear the first time you crank it over or the first time th e cylinder fires. If this happens when you have points no spark. If you have an electronic ignition, you will have spark, but at the wrong time. Al Eden

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RUMBLEFISH
The engine was taking out re-ringed and put back in and its gonna stay there. After my screw up with electrical what I have decided to do is go the 12 volt coil conversion based on posts in the forum. The one question again is on electrical because I don't want to fry anything else. Can I use the factory 3 way switch on the tractor or do I need a different one? Thanks for everyone's input on my debauchery and ideas to correct my problem.

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RayS
quote:
Originally posted by r32ford
i was told the magnatron would not work on the 10-16 hp cast iron engines.i want to get rid of the points setup. any ideas?
You can use the Magnetron but you will need to remove the flywheel and send to Briggs to be repolarized. Stens has an electronic ignition module that you can use in place of the points. It is called a Mega Fire II. You don`t need to have the flywheel repolarized going with the Stens module. http://desc.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=stens+mega+fire+II&_sacat=159912&_sop=10&_odkw=stens+mega+fire+II&_osacat=159912&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=1&_rdc=1

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