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Bailey

4041 "Stopped" PHOTO UPDATE

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Bailey
The 4041 just stopped about 30 feet into the snow this morning. No dramatic noise, just stopped going. Motor fine, drive belts fine, hydraulics work. Move hydro lever forward and back and it whines a little different and just starts to rock in that direction, but it absolutely not about to go anywhere. Started looking through the parts manual for a key I might have sheared, but everything looks like its splined in there. Anyone have any idea what I'm about to get into?????? UPDATE >>> Could this be a problem?




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midnightpumpkin
Andy, are you sure the drive belts aren't slipping? I would take the top cover off above the transmission so you can see what the driveshaft is doing. If the driveshaft is not turning, the belts are probably slipping. The other thing to check would be the level of the trans fluid, but I doubt that is the issue. Clogged filter would be another possibility. John U

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Bailey
Had plenty of hydro pressure, tested by raising both ends of the tractor off the ground with the snow plow and box blade. It stopped all at once and won't budge itself on level ground ..... gotta a feeling somthin' is broke.

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midnightpumpkin
I guess the next thing I would do is take the cover off the transmssion case and see if the output shaft of the hydro unit is turning. BTW I used "RIGHT STUFF" from permatex to seal the trans cover on UB. The stuff really seems to work. John U

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D-17_Dave
You likely have blown out a drop housing. Try pulling on one brake at a time and see if it tries to move a little more. I have done this to load dead tractors before. This should isolate a bad outer component and which side. If this doesn't help then your problem is internal of the hydrostat or gearbox. You could have lift pressure off the charge pump but have destructed the guts of the hydro.

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Bailey
Well Dave ... I won't bore you with the details, but I've had a rotten run of luck lately. Sounded like a good idea, so I fired 'er up. The brakes are pretty lousy, so I leaned into the left pretty heavy and no change. Then I stomped on the right brake heavy and something changed ....... THE WHOLE RIGHT BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMPBLY POPPED OFF THE END OF THE SHAFT, broken weld. I'm just gonna have to get it in the barn and get in there and see what's (not) happening ....

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RobertE
I had the same symptoms with my AC 616. I only had the tractor for about two or three months and one day it just stopped moving. Everything else worked fine, it just wouldn't move. I finally jacked up one back wheel at a time and with the tractor in gear the right wheel spun easily. The left wheel was difficult to turn as would be expected. The problem was a missing spring that holds a coupler in the proper position to connect the drop housing splined shaft to the output differential shaft. Somebody had put the right wheel drop housing back on without that spring. The coupler had just eventually slid out of place on the splined shafts which disconnected the right wheel from the differential shaft. That left the right differential shaft free to turn, so no torque was applied to the left wheel either. Maybe that spring got left off of yours too. I've been looking in my repair manual but I can’t see where it shows that coupler at all. The spring is shown on page F-2 of an AC 720 manual. Hope this helps. Robert

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midnightpumpkin
Could a good machinist build the splines up with weld and regrind them and then case harden the whole shaft? A new shaft is available for around $170, would a repair be cost effective? John U

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mroman59
quote:
Could a good machinist build the splines up with weld and regrind them and then case harden the whole shaft? A new shaft is available for around $170, would a repair be cost effective?
Is $170 that much if the part is available and you use the tractor throughout the year? What if you use the tractor for a couple more years? Thats only $85/year. Of course, I would check with your machinist/welder uncle first. LOL

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midnightpumpkin
quote:
Originally posted by mroman59
quote:
Could a good machinist build the splines up with weld and regrind them and then case harden the whole shaft? A new shaft is available for around $170, would a repair be cost effective?
Is $170 that much if the part is available and you use the tractor throughout the year? What if you use the tractor for a couple more years? Thats only $85/year. Of course, I would check with your machinist/welder uncle first. LOL
Well Andy, it's time to call that Uncle in Rising Sun, Indiana. I would be curious to see what he has to say. John U

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