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ezliving4ume

Electric lift installation on a 6200 simplicity

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ezliving4ume
First off, thank you meldOdsm06sm06sm06, I'm attaching pictures of my parts and the parts break down in the manual for reference. Electric lift group 1690606. I'm going to start by disassembling the lift screw and motor assembly #18. I what to see what the gears and screw look like. don't want it to break half way thru the season.










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RedbarnRick
If you are taking apart the lift actuator remove the 4 screws on the cover and carefully pry it open, there is a gasket you don't want to ruin. The 9/16" bolt above the motor housing is next to be removed, then there is an 1/8 in. pin thru the shaft that slides out. Twist and turn the screw enclosure untill you have two sepearate mechanisms. The motor can now be removed at this time. I'd take a pic of the gears the way they are in there for reference later, now you can remove the gears and clutch pack, clean them and inspect them, most don't show any wear on the gears but the clutch pack can get stuck use some laquer thinner to clean the clutch pack. once you reassemble it you will need to find some grease for it, I use OMC outboard grease or you can use the green Mercury tfc grease it's waterproof.

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ezliving4ume
The 9/16 bolt is #25? I will be getting started this week just trying to do a little preliminary work. I'll be taking pictures of tear down, rebuild and installation. It'll be loads of fun I hope.

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Burntime
It should actually be very straight forward and simple. I have switched them in the 7000/7100 before. Not a tough job, just under everything. If your due for an oil change then run it out of gas, drain the oil, and stand it up on end. It makes it much easier...


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mroman59
Could that lift actuator unit be mounted to a snow blade and controlled by rocker switch for forward and reverse? As the arm goes in and out it will move the blade in left and right directions. I realize that the arm on this unit may not be long enough to move the blade in the full tilt position, but there may be other actuator units that have longer arms. Does anyone have any thoughts about this working or not. I remember seeing this particular lift actuator listed on eBay.

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ezliving4ume
Question, how does the screw assembly come out of the tube? I removed the rear cover and the bolt seperating the two pieces but can't get the screw assembly out. It doesn't have the 4 bolts like the manual shows?

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ezliving4ume
help, On the disassembly of the electric actuator. How does the main lift screw come out of the houseing and/or tube? I would like to be able to inspect the screw for wear.

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ezliving4ume
ok some pictures and the type of grease I will be putting in it.The gears in the bottom look great. I still have not figured out how to get the lift screw out of the tube. But at this point I don't thing i'll worry about it. The last picture shows the lift screw housing that I can't get apart.








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mroman59
What will you be lifting with this electric lift/hitch? A tiller? Are you planting a big garden? Where did you get the lift? Was it not working when you purchased it? or did you already have it and just needed repaired?

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ezliving4ume
quote:
Originally posted by mroman59
What will you be lifting with this electric lift/hitch? A tiller? Are you planting a big garden? Where did you get the lift? Was it not working when you purchased it? or did you already have it and just needed repaired?
Man, I got your email I just haven't had time to responed:( sorry. This lift takes the place of the lift arm. wo who:D no more mister arm strong for me. At this point it will be lifting mower deck,tiller,snow thrower, front push blade etc. I got the lift from Mel. a member on here this is the thread http://simpletractors.com/Club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=115569 Mel said it all worked fine. But I'm planning on keeping this tractor for a long time and with used equipment it is always best to do a complete inspection before using it. If the gears were worn or this that or the other thing. would replace the worn parts before installing it into the tractor. The lift screw is easy to find its the brackets that are difficult to locate. I hope I have answered a couple of your questions anyway. can you help answer mine? How does the lift screw come out of the tube? I want to inspect and regrease it.

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mroman59
would need a close up look at that parts diagram you have, but it appears you have the wrong diagram for you lift. I dont see those 4 bolts/screws next to the lift screw that you want to remove. You sure its not some kind of pin that runs through the tube to hold it on?

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ezliving4ume
Don't know, the (4) bolts are not there thats for sure, Its crimped right below the trunnion mount. I think they changed the design from (4) bolts to a crimp style. So I won't be inspecting the screw lift. I'm off to napa after work today to get some supply's for this project.

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ezliving4ume
wow! the worst installation manual ever!! http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=jgEBGP_cwQ8tG5EPa7mRgtLvBCd6 How do the pieces and parts go together? look at step 9(10 is the hour meter) then step 11. how can the components of the lift all ready be installed? Figure 8 is completely missing, hummmmm?

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sovereign72
When you grease the gears in the housing I recomend a molybendum disulfide grease that is intended for open gears instead of that lithium complex. the lithium is ok but the moly is better for that application

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ezliving4ume
quote:
Originally posted by sovereign72
When you grease the gears in the housing I recomend a molybendum disulfide grease that is intended for open gears instead of that lithium complex. the lithium is ok but the moly is better for that application
I would agree on the moly but I don't need to worry about heat build up in this application. Lucas make the bomb in lubricants,So a sticky grease is the best IMO. So, I got some pictures of a new home made gasket and the re assembly but the wife whats some attention, so....

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ezliving4ume
I Had to make up a new gasket, A leather punch works wonders for this. I will NEVER buy the sticky backed gasket mat'l again! A first I was like oh that sounds like it would be better. It is a PITA to cut through the plastic tape stuff on the back. That and if you have locating pins you'll need to watch which side the sticky is on. I never had any problems with the old material with out the sticky. Not impressed at all with the gasket material.






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ezliving4ume
The next picture is the gasket installed, the gears are greased. Already to be put back together. Cool


This is of the final test of the assembly, Works great! When I got the assembly I didn't test it right away. I disassembled first, if there was something wrong I wouldn't want to make it worst by appling power. Thats my old age talking, there was a time I would have thrown power to it first thing. Not pictured is the test of the motor only which was done before reassembly.


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ezliving4ume
The parts that I got from Mel can be set aside for now. All thats left on them is a good cleaning, prime and paint. The next two pictures are of my trip to NAPA. Bonus they where having NAPA days free lunch two day in a row! wo who:D




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ezliving4ume
This is the mounting location for the switch. I have thought about this long and hard. I didn't want it on the dash because its not reachable from the set unless i bend forward. O and the weather proof toggle switch cover shown in the above picture is going on the light switch on the dash while I have it apart. Is it wrong that I enjoy these little projects so much. I find this type of work very interesting.


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ezliving4ume
burntime, I'm going to take your advise and drain the fluids and tip the tractor up on its back when I get to that point. NAPA has all kinds of cool switches I bet they could hook you up. Did you see the link to the installation manual? Now I had a couple cocktails last night but, that thing is screwed up.sm00

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ezliving4ume
Ok, cleaned the parts up and they are ready for some primer and paint. The wife has a cat coat rack she wants primered so, the painting got moved up in the schedule.






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